twohearts-theyrebeating asked: Hi there. I do have a quick question! I'm about 5'4 and a heavier build. But I wish that didnt stop me from being able to wear the clothes I love (not skinny, but straight cut jeans. The supra skatish obey type of person). Any idea where I may find jeans that would fit me pretty well? Thanks!

I asked two experts!

Blake says: I love Old Navy Sweetheart Skinny Jeans. They’re only $30 (they go on sale for $19 fairly frequently) and they come in short. After a couple of wears they’ll be straight and not skinny. However, if you want them to be straight on the first wear, buy a size up. If short is too long, you can cuff them or get them hemmed (get them hemmed if they’re more than 3 inches too long). 

Courtney says: Levi’s men’s taper fit (508) and straight (501) jeans cuts are also classic jeans— my 501s look straight and are a bit loose on me. They have pretty frequent sales online and they come in tons of sizes and washes!  

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By Blake

You don’t need to start from scratch when the seasons get warmer! For spring I only make two significant changes to what I wear:

• Lighter fabrics— so no wool, flannel, tweed, etc.
• Lighter colors— (I’m in love with pastels just like every other student at UVA, sorry not sorry)

(from trashness.com)

(from indulgy.com)

I still wear jeans (vans and cuffed jeans= classic) and collared shirts in the summertime (usually not at the same time) depending on how hot it is.
(from ostentationandstyle.tumblr.com)

(from ostentationandstyle.tumblr.com)

The weather in Virginia can be pretty temperamental (Buah hah!); 70 degrees one day and 50 the next. However, the outer layer goes away-sweaters, cardigans, and heavy jackets. To replace a big coat, I’m in love with the windbreakers/ parkas I’ve seen around for when it gets chilly.  

(from rawthentix.com)

(from thirdlooks.com) 

Zanerobe Bay Short Sleeve Shirt, $99 at needsupply.com

Gitman Vintage Pinup Oxford Shirt (from meadowweb.com)

(from bgibney.com)

In addition, I love incorporating a busy pattern into my spring outfit. Because it is often too hot to wear a sweater or cardigan, patterns can add another layer of complexity and flare. I’m talking polka dots (and top button swag), florals (“florals for spring…groundbreaking”), zig zags, pin-up girl patterns; go crazy. When done right, patterns show that you put some thought into your outfit.

(from culturaltoast.tumblr.com)

Timex weekender watches $35 at Amazon

I roll my sleeves up most of the time during the spring. Great opportunity to accessorize with some bracelets and a watch. You can find more affordable bracelets from ALDO or Etsy. 

Sperry Top-Sider Authentic Originals Mens Boat Shoes

(source unknown)

I also wear lighter colored shoes in lighter fabrics-usually low tops. So Sperry’s, Vans, etc. Happy spring dressing!

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Dolphinlegs asked: So I’ll soon be transitioning from a student to a professional, and I looked around and was like “hmm, I own no professional clothes at all.” And I really have no idea where to start. I was wondering what tips you have on dressing for a professional job interview/ dressing professionally in general. I’m not really the type of lady who would feel comfortable wearing a suit and tie, but would prefer something a little less masculine. Perhaps something on the more “soft butch” side?

To me, the difference between dressing “soft butch” and full-on masculine is the way the cut of the clothes fits your body. The actual pieces; slacks, button-ups, ties, blazers, pocket squares etc, are all the same. But I’d look for professional menswear inspired clothes that fit your gender presentation. You’ll probably have the most luck in the women’s section. There are tons of more feminine suit and tie combos out there that are cut to show off curves, and then everything in between.

(from queerbois.com)

Here are my tips for establishing your new wardrobe as an aspiring soft butch professional. You might tailor this further depending on your field and location. If once you start working there you see people being more casual, follow their lead and take it down a notch. But as far as first impressions go:

1. For pants and blazers, choose conservative colors such as grey, black, navy, army green, and khaki. For shirts and sweaters go for white, burgundy, blues, grays, light pinks, and greens. Ties and pocket squares can add pops of color, but nothing too bright or crazy.
2. Blazers and sport coats! Maybe even with elbow patches. Check out H&M, Topshop, J.Crew, Marimacho.
3. Khakis/ dress pants: Go to town. Once you find a cut that you like, don’t be afraid to buy it in multiple colors! I love the fit of the Gap’s pants. Zara’s are also sweet. Don’t roll the cuffs.
4. Unless you’re interviewing at the most prestigious legal firm, rock separate pieces rather than full-on suits. It’s cheaper, and easier to combine things that fit well. See Blake’s piece on suit separates.
5. For footwear: derbies, brogues, oxfords, fancier saddle shoes, wingtips, and loafers are all great choices. No sneakers, boat shoes, or sandals. 
6. You’ll need at least one black belt and one brown belt. Avoid big, decorative buckles with angel wings and skulls etc. on them. Match your belt with your shoes.
7. Sweaters and cardigans are great, but go for higher-end sweaters that fit well and don’t look frumpy. Check out the ones at Everlane, Banana Republic, J. Crew. 
8. Make sure your shirt fits well; getting it tailored if necessary. Depending on the level of formality, you might need to only wear long-sleeve shirts. If it’s less formal: In the summer, short sleeve button-ups are a good choice! (Ta-da) Stay away from polos, shirts with western detailing, and flannel. Always keep your shirt tucked in.
9. Don’t shy away from neck ties and bow ties! They can break up an outfit and add another element or color or texture. But keep it snug with the top button buttoned; not loosened.
10. Carry a briefcase, portfolio, or professional backpack.
11. Iron! It makes a huge difference!

Did I leave something out? Add it to the comments!

(from brokeandbespoke.tumblr.com)

(from queerplusfashion.tumblr.com)

Ox-1 Portrait Briefcase with detachable backpack straps, formink.com for $59.00

(from marksandersphotographer.blogspot.com)

(from i-dream-of-dapper.tumblr.com)

(from thebespokedudes.com)

Congratulations! With the right outfit, you are halfway to being a Power Queer.

- Sonia

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Anonymous asked: Hi Blake,I love, love, love a good menswear vest to go under jackets, etc., but I find them so hard to find. I am a plus size woman and I'm only 5'3'', so, if I find them large enough, they are usually too long. Have you got a solution for a dapper dyke like me?

Blake says: Hey there! I certainly understand the problem with finding proper fitting clothes. If they’re too small here, they’re too big there. Men’s clothes can be hit or miss as far as fit is concerned because they are not made with curves in mind. 

Not all women’s vests are overtly feminine, especially nowadays (I sound so old. I’m not sure if I can use “nowadays” at the age of 19. Whatever.) The key, as with anything, is knowing where to look. I’m not sure where you’re located, but the Qwear Forum would be a great place to find stores in your area! Outside of women’s vests, I suggest trying out new brands, specifically ones that offer slim fit. The body fits a little closer and the rest of the vest is usually shorter. The idea behind “slim” clothes is less fabric, better fit. We weren’t sure about the tailoring possibilities for suit vests, so we consulted with Rae of the The Handsome Butch  who is a a clothier. She said it’s very hard because the buttons go all the way to the bottom.

If you can afford a $115 vest, Marimacho makes a snazzy one that comes in XL and XXL:

The Brooklyn Vest, available at Marimacho

If you really want to drop some dough, Shaz Riley at the The Butch Clothing Company can always whip up a custom vest for you starting at £200 (approx. $322). But most likely, you’ll be able to find something affordable if you shop around long enough. Keep looking; the right clothes are out there.

Anonymous asked: I am a bigger girl, who normally dresses more femme with hints of masculine. I really want to wear boots but I don’t know where to look for ones that aren’t too butch but not horribly girly. I have found a few but they don’t fit. Side note, I have huge feet. If you have any suggestions I would be so happy.

Blake says: Howdy there! I have two pairs of Clark desert boots and a pair of Duck boots from L.L. Bean. I wear about a 9 in men’s and a 10/11 in women’s — so my feet are far from small. Combat boots don’t fit me well — my feet are too wide for most varieties. If you really want to wear combat boots and have wide feet like me, men’s are your best bet. While they are more expensive, they will fit you better. However, be careful with men’s combat boots — they get big and clunky reallll quick. Below are my picks for boots. Hope this helps!

Oakwood Suede Clarks desert boots-$109.99, available in a slew of colors and materials

L.L. Bean duck boots, 6 inch, $119 available in various heights (6in, 8in, etc) and colors

Also check out Dr. Martens! Mens Dr. Martens 1460 Classic 8 Eye Boot, At Journeys for $129.99

Related posts: Dr. Martens: The Legacy Comes With A Price

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Anonymous asked: Is it ever a good idea to buy pants that are too big in the waist? I’m curvy with wide hips and big thighs, so a lot of pants (in the men’s as well as the women’s section) that fit me well in the leg are too big in the waist, especially since I prefer my pants to be looser in the leg rather than skinny. Belts are always an option, but in one case a pair of pants I otherwise loved was way too big in the waist. Can tailoring fix this, or have I been looking for pants in the wrong places?

Blake says: It really depends on the pair of pants. You don’t want your pants to be “baggy” in the crotch area (I find that this is more of a problem with men’s pants). If there isn’t too much extra fabric below the waist, everything else can be tailored. Any tailor can hem pants or take the waist in.

I, too, like my pants to be more baggy. I achieve this by buying a size up and wearing a belt. Belts not only keep me from flashing everyone, but they are also a great way to add an extra dimension to your outfit (a pop of color, texture, etc.). 

(^ Blake in the most amazing pants everrr! from queerplusfashion.tumblr.com) 

Anonymous asked: I just wanted to let you know how snazzy you look in that shirt with the back bow tie and wool overcoat. That shirt color just suits you do well. (I think it's a tiny check, but in the photo it reads like purplish red color. Whatever... it is stunning on you.) If I saw you I would smile every day thinking about how much though you put into your ensemble.

This is so sweet!! The photo is of Blake; you can follow her here: queerplusfashion.tumblr.com

- Sonia

checkersandshuffleboard asked: Hi, I love this blog! It's awesome. So my girlfriend got me a couple of really slick bow ties and they're so nice that I want to wear them everywhere, but I don't know if wearing bow ties on a daily basis is appropriate.. is there a 'right' time to rock a bow tie?

The right time to rock a bow tie is any time you’re awake. 

(Thanks Blake)