Anonymous asked: You've done a few posts on getting custom made shirts (from places like Ratio and Blank Label). I'm thinking about getting my first custom shirt made, but there are so many places that do it these days! What has been your best custom shirt ordering experience? Is there one company that you'd recommend over all the others?

If you are around New York City or plan on visiting any time soon, my highest recommendation is our tailoring consultant, Rae (aka The Handsome Butch) with Bindle & Keep! You can e-mail her at Rachel@BindleandKeep.com. I haven’t made anything with her yet myself, but she’s queer and amazing (not to mention, uh, gorgeous) so I’m sure she’d fit you for a fabulous shirt.

This could be you! (from thehandsomebutch.tumblr.com)

If you are not around NYC, and you fit within the S - XL range, I also highly recommend Androgyny. Even though they aren’t custom made, their shirts actually fit me better than any custom made shirt I’ve ever gotten. 

I also had a really positive experience with both Ratio Clothing and Blank Label. The email exchange with Eric Powell of Ratio was incredibly in-depth and he took extraordinary care to make sure I got what I needed (and was very up-to-date on queer needs.) It also depends which fabrics and styles you are interested in. Ratio has some amazing new gingham and plaid options that I’m feeling a tad drooly over. However, Blank Label offers more options for collar, placket, cuffs, pockets, and buttons. Ratio also will allow you to send back a shirt for additional alterations as many times as you need; whereas Blank Label offers just one remake.

I don’t have any experience with bespoke women’s shirts, so I don’t have much advice on finding more feminine cuts. But I should add that Androgyny is really cut to look androgynous. Menswear companies like Ratio and Blank Label will have more masculine cuts that emphasize broad shoulders. 

Click on the brands to see my reviews about each: Androgyny | Ratio Clothing | Blank Label

Anyone else have reviews to add of these or other custom shirt labels? Add them to the comments!

- Sonia

Getting a custom shirt takes a bit of extra effort — but after my successful go of it with Ratio Clothing, I wanted to see what other companies were up to. So I got in touch with Blank Label and they sent me a sample to share with all of you! I found the shirt to have a very masculine fit, so I recommend this for all masculine-of-center folk out there. The shoulders have a broadening cut, which will help minimize your chest (if you have one) and create an overall more masculine shape. 

Single ply 100s thread count for 85$? Woahhh.

Blank Label has a pretty awesome array of fabrics and patterns — colorful, yet understated. I needed a white dress shirt, so I ordered Charlie Dunst: solid white twill weave with mini point collar. The fabric quality lives goes beyond any expectations for an $85 shirt. Single ply 100s thread count; a $220 value at most tailors. The weave of the fabric is probably my favorite part about the shirt. They let you customize pretty much everything about the shirt, so you can choose from 10 collar options, none of which are too extreme for any face, and some quite unique. Why not try a club collar? You can also choose length based on whether you plan on wearing it tucked or untucked; If you plan on wearing it formally, I highly recommend the tucked option so you don’t have to worry about it coming out. 

How to measure:

If I was doing this again, I’d absolutely send them measurements of my favorite shirt rather than measurements of myself. Why? It’s easier to screw up measurements of yourself. Even if you get them taken professionally, it is still then up to Blank Label to decide how to best cut the shirt. And if you are trying to use a shirt to create a different look for your body, this can get even more complicated. Even aside from female curve issues, some people prefer a looser fit to a closer fit. Luckily, Blank Label provides a  guide for measuring a shirt. It takes about 20 minutes. Even if you have a shirt that fits pretty well, you can guess on adjustments needed with the measurements you send. (e.g. you have a boy’s shirt that fits perfectly except for arm length.) If you fall in-between sizes, always size up. Or if you don’t mind giving up your favorite shirt for a little while and you live in the US, you can send it to them and have them measure it! Free of charge.

Then email them (sayhi@blanklabel.com) just to say hey, I want a men’s shirt:

If they think you are female, they will add feminine tailoring elements, so it’s best to specify what you need:

• If you would like the shirt to come out a little bit at the hips from the side seam, tell them! If you have wide hips, a bit of this can be good. It won’t look too feminine if it’s just an inch or two.
• Tell them you don’t want chest darts.
• They also don’t offer an option for a center box pleat on the back. Back pleats are a common occurrence on men’s shirts, and help with shape so that there is less bunching in front. I recommend requesting this in your email as well, unless you really dig the look of the no-pleat back (see below!)

Need more help? Email me!

If you want a queer to discuss fit with before making the order, feel free to email me at sonia@qwearfashion.com and I’d be happy to help!

I totally recommend them to anyone who wants a masculine shirt for a fancy occasion. Their prices and customization options are unbeatable.

xoxo,

Sonia

A Bicycle Built For Two is one of my new of my new favorite sources for queer formal wear inspiration! A beautiful display of carefully picked lesbian and queer wedding photos. I was scrolling the other day and found this dashing couple, AnnMarie & Anne:

Obvi I had to get in touch with them and ask them about their outfits.

AnnMarie (suit, bow tie) told me, “I knew what I wanted to look like on my wedding day from the time I was little. I am obsessed with English styled suiting from the mid century. I am also equally obsessed with classic menswear. I wanted my look to be dapper and polished and really show my personality. I was born a 67 year old man and I really wanted that to show through.” She wound up with this amazing vintage, bespoke suit made in 1967, from the Etsy shop, Brightwall, and then she got it tailored. 

Anne told me that she prefers simple dresses, and had surprising luck at David’s Bridal! ”I wanted a dress, but I hate shiny fabric, beads, sparkles… Basically most wedding gowns. They just aren’t me. I wanted simple and clean. I found a lot of beautiful vintage dresses that were all too teeny tiny, so against my instincts, we checked out David’s Bridal. And we found the dress! It’s shantung, which is more matte, and structured (learn something new every day). And it has pockets!! Overall I wanted to feel like myself, and for me that means simple and classic, but with fun details.”

AnnMarie:
Suit: Etsy shop, Brightwall + tailoring
Tie and Pocket Square: Custom made through Etsy shop Divinedomestication.
Vest, Suspenders and Socks: Men’s Wearhouse + tailoring
Shirt: Blank Label
Shoes: Calvin Klein Men’s Felix Oxford, bought on Amazon. 
Hat: Sugarcube in Philly

Anne:
Dress: David’s Bridal
Shoes: Etsy shop, Walkinonair
Hair comb: Anastasia’s Antiques in Philadelphia
Pearls: AnnMarie’s grandmother’s
Watch: Anne’s grandmother’s

(Photography by Philadelphia Wedding Photographer, Mike Allebach of Allebach Photography)

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