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Founder & Writer
Sonny (Sonia) Oram

Style Consultants
A.D.

Courtney (petite menswear)

Rae (Tailoring)

Raimi & Lee (hair)

Blake (plus sizes)



Esquire Theme by Matthew Buchanan
Customization Design by Sonia Oram

19

May

Springtime Mini Lapel Boutoneirres

I need to talk about my new dandy obsession: mini lapel pins. These are most commonly seen at weddings on groomsmen and the like, but I plan on taking after Lover Of Stories and wearing them all the time. Where you have a lapel, you can have a lapel pin.

Mini Lapel Boutoneirres
(from: loverofstories.tumblr.com)

Mini Lapel Boutoneirres
(from: unclebeebo.tumblr.com)

Mini Lapel Boutoneirres
(from: fineanddandyshopblog.com)

image
(from: www.etsy.com)

Mini Lapel Boutoneirres
(from: www.etsy.com)

Places to pick them up: 

Hello Oliver on Etsy
The Love Stitch on Etsy

Mini Lapel Boutoneirres

You can also get some some stud earrings like these Colorful Rose Flower Stud Earrings Set and put them in your jacket insteaddd. I’ve never actually tried this. Have you?

- Sonny

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18

Apr

Blazer: Banana Republic Sleek suit blazer, navy (women)Shirt: J.Crew Perfect Shirt, (women) thriftedPants: Banana Republic Martin Fit sleek pants, navy (women) Watch: Timex expedition field watchBelt: Dockers leather belt, (men) JCPenny Oxfords: Merona Eddie Oxfords (men) Target clearance  Socks: Mossimo dress socks (men) Target clearance 
Diana says: My wife and I have several outdoor weddings to attend this spring and the dressier side of my closest is mostly business wear plus a black blazer. I tend to wear a mix of ladies/gents for fit reasons (tad over 5’5 with a slightly “curvy” figure) but had high hopes of finding a well fitting gents jacket I could get tailored. After several weeks of thrifting/interneting/outlet malling in search of a lightweight blazer, I gave up on finding something I felt handsome in from either side of the shop (too short/long/bunching/80’s shoulders and the Paul Ryan look all come to mind). I had moved on to “chinos, button down, bow tie” when I tried Banana Republic and was floored by how great I felt in their ladies sleek suit. Unlike some of the other ladies suits I tried, the fabric on this feels substantial, the button hits closer to my navel and it has a functional front pocket (pocket squares!) I’ll be taking a trip to the tailors but was so pleased with the off-the-rack fit (plus some hem tape magic courtesy of the wife). I wore it to a wedding the following day. 
Follow Diana’s Lesbian Gentleman pinterest board: http://pinterest.com/aebaxter/the-lesbian-gentleman/
Submit to Qwear!

Blazer: Banana Republic Sleek suit blazer, navy (women)
Shirt: J.Crew Perfect Shirt, (women) thrifted
Pants: Banana Republic Martin Fit sleek pants, navy (women) 
Watch: Timex expedition field watch
Belt: Dockers leather belt, (men) JCPenny 
Oxfords: Merona Eddie Oxfords (men) Target clearance  
Socks: Mossimo dress socks (men) Target clearance 

Diana says: My wife and I have several outdoor weddings to attend this spring and the dressier side of my closest is mostly business wear plus a black blazer. I tend to wear a mix of ladies/gents for fit reasons (tad over 5’5 with a slightly “curvy” figure) but had high hopes of finding a well fitting gents jacket I could get tailored. After several weeks of thrifting/interneting/outlet malling in search of a lightweight blazer, I gave up on finding something I felt handsome in from either side of the shop (too short/long/bunching/80’s shoulders and the Paul Ryan look all come to mind). I had moved on to “chinos, button down, bow tie” when I tried Banana Republic and was floored by how great I felt in their ladies sleek suit. Unlike some of the other ladies suits I tried, the fabric on this feels substantial, the button hits closer to my navel and it has a functional front pocket (pocket squares!) I’ll be taking a trip to the tailors but was so pleased with the off-the-rack fit (plus some hem tape magic courtesy of the wife). I wore it to a wedding the following day. 

Follow Diana’s Lesbian Gentleman pinterest board: http://pinterest.com/aebaxter/the-lesbian-gentleman/

Submit to Qwear!

26

Mar

Next Semester: Queer Expression in 1990’s American Dandyism

Shirt: George, thrifted at Goodwill
Tie: Brooks Brothers, from my dad
Sweater Vest: Pitlochry (vintage Scottish brand), My friend gave it to me
Blazer: H&M from 2008
Glasses: SEE Eyewear

Part 3 of 3 of my Dandy Winter Photoshoot series with Sam Murray! (Here’s her Tumblr/Maddow fan page.)! See parts 1 and 2.

Also, go Marriage Equality! I don’t own red. #Queerissues?

Show us your stufffs

02

Mar

sleeplings asked: My mum gave me a jacket that I really like but it is a woman's jacket so when I put it on it kind of exaggerates curves making it look like I have more boobs and hips than I actually do. I want a more boyish looking body and I'm not really comfortable wearing the jacket for that reason. I find that a lot of woman's jackets are cut in a way that does this. Is there a way to taylor jackets in a way to give them a straighter cut? Thank you xx

I asked Rae of The Handsome Butch, who is also a clothier with  Bindle & Keep in NY. She says: 

The major differences between men’s and women’s jacket cuts are bust and skirting (flair between lower ribcage and the top of the hips). When we make women’s suits for people with curves, we take a series of measurements to triangulate hip and bust curvature. The key to putting a men’s cut on a person with curves is to skip these steps and instead treat the bust as chest size, not chest size plus bust. It’s important to realize that not only has the fabric of your jacket been cut to allow for the bust but so has the interlining. The interlining is the internal canvas by which the outer fabric has been glued or sewn. Cinching and tucking the fabric to give a straighter cut is next to impossible because the interlining will still have the curvature you’re looking remove. The abridged answer is that I’m afraid even a magical tailor won’t be able to give the results you’re looking for.

03

Feb

The Soft Butch’s Beginning Professional Wardrobe

Dolphinlegs asked: So I’ll soon be transitioning from a student to a professional, and I looked around and was like “hmm, I own no professional clothes at all.” And I really have no idea where to start. I was wondering what tips you have on dressing for a professional job interview/ dressing professionally in general. I’m not really the type of lady who would feel comfortable wearing a suit and tie, but would prefer something a little less masculine. Perhaps something on the more “soft butch” side?

To me, the difference between dressing “soft butch” and full-on masculine is the way the cut of the clothes fits your body. The actual pieces; slacks, button-ups, ties, blazers, pocket squares etc, are all the same. But I’d look for professional menswear inspired clothes that fit your gender presentation. You’ll probably have the most luck in the women’s section. There are tons of more feminine suit and tie combos out there that are cut to show off curves, and then everything in between.

image
(from queerbois.com)

Here are my tips for establishing your new wardrobe as an aspiring soft butch professional. You might tailor this further depending on your field and location. If once you start working there you see people being more casual, follow their lead and take it down a notch. But as far as first impressions go:

  1. For pants and blazers, choose conservative colors such as grey, black, navy, army green, and khaki. For shirts and sweaters go for white, burgundy, blues, grays, light pinks, and greens. Ties and pocket squares can add pops of color, but nothing too bright or crazy.
  2. Blazers and sport coats! Maybe even with elbow patches. Check out H&MTopshop, J.Crew, Marimacho.
  3. Khakis/ dress pants: Go to town. Once you find a cut that you like, don’t be afraid to buy it in multiple colors! I love the fit of the Gap’s pants. Zara’s are also sweet. Don’t roll the cuffs.
  4. Unless you’re interviewing at the most prestigious legal firm, rock separate pieces rather than full-on suits. It’s cheaper, and easier to combine things that fit well. See Blake’s piece on suit separates.
  5. For footwear: derbies, brogues, oxfords, fancier saddle shoes, wingtips, and loafers are all great choices. No sneakers, boat shoes, or sandals. 
  6. You’ll need at least one black belt and one brown belt. Avoid big, decorative buckles with angel wings and skulls etc. on them. Match your belt with your shoes.
  7. Sweaters and cardigans are great, but go for higher-end sweaters that fit well and don’t look frumpy. Check out the ones at Everlane, Banana Republic, J. Crew
  8. Make sure your shirt fits well; getting it tailored if necessary. Depending on the level of formality, you might need to only wear long-sleeve shirts. If it’s less formal: In the summer, short sleeve button-ups are a good choice! (Ta-da) Stay away from polos, shirts with western detailing, and flannel. Always keep your shirt tucked in.
  9. Don’t shy away from neck ties and bow ties! They can break up an outfit and add another element or color or texture. But keep it snug with the top button buttoned; not loosened.
  10. Carry a briefcase, portfolio, or professional backpack.
  11. Iron! It makes a huge difference!

Did I leave something out? Add it to the comments!

image
(from brokeandbespoke.tumblr.com)

image
(from queerplusfashion.tumblr.com)image

Ox-1 Portrait Briefcase with detachable backpack straps, formink.com for $59.00

image
(from marksandersphotographer.blogspot.com)

image
(from i-dream-of-dapper.tumblr.com)

image
(from thebespokedudes.com)

Congratulations! With the right outfit, you are halfway to being a Power Queer.

- Sonia

Follow Qwear: FACEBOOK | TWITTER | BLOGLOVIN | PINTEREST

02

Feb

Contrasting Lapels for an Androgynous Outfit

Blazer: Bought in France 
Shirt: Surplus, bought at T.J. Maxx
Tie: Urban Outfitters*

*Urban Outfitters donates money to anti-gay campaigns. Learn more about their actions hereBuffalo Exchange and Ragstock are great hipster alternatives

By Marina | misleadingtitles.tumblr

Submit to Qwear!

03

Jan

I Dream Of Dapper (In The Library)

image

image
(photo credit: Boogie)

Bow Tie: Amazon (Susan G Komen)
Grey blazer: Goodwill (no lable)
Sweater: Kohl’s (Lauren Conrad)
Striped Shirt: Express

More I Dream Of Dapper on Qwear: Pattern Mixing Guide with I Dream of DapperThe Queer Pomp in 3 Steps With I Dream of Dapper | Follow I Dream Of Dapper

18

Dec

New Haircut, and Tieless!

This H&M’s women’s blazer had been in the back of my closet for a while because I felt it was too feminine. But it was actually seeing Esther Quek’s neatly tailored women’s suits that encouraged me to try it again. Now I like the fit, and feel that it matches my androgynous presentation perfectly.

The Hunter Boots are Qwear virgins; got them at the Tannery in Harvard Square for $50 and am always waiting for rainy days like to today to sport them.

sonia oram queer style esther quek
Blazer: H&M
Shirt: Ralph Lauren Boys’ Blake Oxford, tailored
Belt: Express (men’s)
Pants: Gap Broken-in Straight Khakis (also womens!)
Boots: Hunter Women’s Brixen Combat Boots, bought at the Tannery

I decided to go tieless today because if I wore ties all the time then A. I’d have trouble distinguishing between dressier and more casual occasions and B. I’d never get to show off top button swag (and in the colder weather, my mad ironing skills.)

Finally, my new haircut! Based it off of Logan Lerman in his holiday sweater and wanted to copy his adorable geeky style, but had also found inspiration from queers I’ve seen around town. I did it at a La Flemme Barber Shop in Lexington, MA; an affordable old school barber shop across from where I work that did a fantastic job. 

Sending warm thoughts from Boston,

Sonia

What are YOU wearing today? Submit to Qwear!

26

Nov

Suit Separates With Blake

Anonymous asked: I’m a masculine-of-center genderqueer person, and I have a formal event coming up in a week. I’ve recently gained weight and 1. don’t fit into my old dress pants and 2. feel really self conscious about my hips/ass (I’m definitely pear shaped). I can’t afford a suit but I want to look classy and stylish — help?

Blake says: Try buying suit separates and then getting them altered to fit you body. Buying pants and a blazer/vest independently of each other will be cheaper and won’t take you as long to find.

For formal events, I like to wear either khakis or dress pants. Admittedly, my perception of fancy is skewed. Here are some combinations that I like for formal attire. You could do a vest or a blazer, or neither depending on how formal the event is. As far as neckwear is concerned…go crazy.

Some separates inspiration:

suit separates
I wore this to a kinda fancy occasion. (It’s all relative I suppose)

suit separates
(source unknown)

suit separates
(source: blog.debbybridal.com)

suit separates
I wore this a few days ago with khakis (*jaw drops* … this outfit is so perfect - Sonia)

suit separates
(source: socialbliss.com)

Full on smance:
suit separates
(source: artofwore.com)

Recent Qwear fashion timez with Blake: Blake’s Thrifting SuccessBlake’s Dapper School Queer LookAvoiding the Buddha Belly 12-Inch-Zipper Problem

23

Nov

Casual Masculine Blazers for Broad Shorties

Anonymous asked: Hello! I have been looking for a casual / going-out blazer for the longest time and I think it’s time to ask for help. I usually shop for androgyny in the women’s section, but whenever I find a blazer style I like it doesn’t fit. I’m a shortie (5’1) with broad shoulders so most women’s blazers are tight in the shoulders and pull out in the chest area. Do you have any recommendations from the womens section or mens section? Should I just buy from the mens section and get it tailored? Thanks!

Courtney says:

As a shortie (5’ 2”) with broad shoulders myself, let me say I feel your pain. Something that I learned from my dad when shopping for blazers: the shoulder fit is most important. Everything else could be tailored if absolutely necessary, but when looking for a more masculine styled blazer, shoulders must fit. I’ve found that even women’s blazers that I don’t think fit me well actually fit and look more masculine if I go up a size to fit my shoulders. So even if you think you wear a certain size, try on a couple others to see if you might like the fit better.

I’ve also found that men’s slim fit blazers fit very well because they are cut to fit broader shoulders along with emphasizing waists.

Blazer, $69.99 at H&M
Blazer, $69.99 at H&M

Brown and Burgundy Skinny Blazer, $230 at Topman
Brown and Burgundy Skinny Blazer, $230 at Topman

Tweed Blazer, $99.95 at American Eagle


Tweed Blazer, $99.95 at American Eagle

Banana Republic offers petite sizes for their women’s wear as well as regular and tall - but even if you usually buy petite, the regular fit might be better for broad shoulders. Women’s blazers also tend to be cut shorter, so if you’re looking for a more androgynous style and you are smaller, women’s regular fit blazers might hang more masculine on you anyway:

Cotton Hacking Jacket, $150 at Banana Republic
Cotton Hacking Jacket, $150 at Banana Republic

Ludlow Sportcoat in Black Watch Harris Tweed Wool, $548 at J. Crew
Ludlow Sportcoat in Black Watch Harris Tweed Wool, $548 at J. Crew

This is so expensive, but look at that fantastic plaid! J. Crew offers short cuts for their suiting so it’s easier to find pieces that fit smaller folk. Hey, maybe this will turn up in a thrift store!

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