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Founder & Writer
Sonny (Sonia) Oram

Style Consultants
A.D.

Courtney (petite menswear)

Rae (Tailoring)

Raimi & Lee (hair)

Blake (plus sizes)



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Customization Design by Sonia Oram

09

Feb

Dear New York Followers… See you on Friday!

This is really exciting. Like, the most exciting. Like, put on your best bow tie and dance alone in your room to Beyonce for an hour exciting.

dapperQ’s Hot Rabbit - Queer Dance Party - Fashion Week Addition’s party was postponed to this Friday, Feb 15th due to the snow storm. And guess what queer will be in town?? 

image

THIS GUY. That’s me. You know, the queer who blogs for you like all the time. That’s my face. Along with the folks at dapperQ, Rae of The Handsome Butch, Marimacho, and many more! There will be prizes for the best dressed (i.e. not your shoveling clothes. I mean, what?)

Here are the deets (to RSVP, click HERE):

Friday Feb 15 @ The Monster (Downstairs)
80 Grove St (W 4th/7th Ave)
10pm-4am
Sponsored by dapperQ
More info here
UPDATE: 21+

See you there!! Come find me! - Sonia

07

Feb

Which Queer Clothing Companies Should I Support?

Since there are so many new queer brands starting up, I thought I’d make a list of our favs! If you have the means to do so, I recommend checking these out when considering your next purchase/getting your hair did! You’re especially lucky if you live in San Francisco, New York City, or London. But many of them have online shops.

Androgyny: High-quality androgynous fitting button-ups for women/people with curves in 5 colors and patterns, priced at $125. No plus sizes yet. (Qwear feature coming soon!)

Bindle & Keep: Bespoke menswear company in NYC. Rae of The Handsome Butch works there, and she’s awesome! Email her for fittings: Rachel@BindleandKeep.com.

Chrysalis: First ever lingerie store for MAAB folks! In NYC, online store opening in Spring. Amazinggg/hot vid on website. (See Huffington Post article about them.)

Fourteen: High-end, unique suit separates for weddings and formal events, made in the USA. Their styles come in every size possible, and in two fits: boy and regular. (See our post about them.)

Marimacho: Brooklyn-based masculine clothing brand for female assigned/identified folks. They have 10 items in their shop including a blazer, suit vest, classic white shirt, bomber jacket, and swim suit.

Open Barbers: Haircuts for people of all genders! In London. Pricing is on a donation basis. Email them at openbarbers@gmail.com for appointments.

PHRESH CUTZ: “A spot for queers and friends of all kinds to kick it with like-minded individuals over drinks, snacks, and beats while tightening up their look!” In Brooklyn. (See Autostraddle post about them)

RodeoH (NSFW): Adorable, comfortable harnesses slash cute underwear. Available online and at in-store locations across the globe.

Saint Harridan: Off-the-rack masculine suits for female assigned people. Wide rang of sizes. 100 Pre-orders taken, accepting more soon. (See our post about them.) 

Tomboy Tailors: A retail shop in San Francisco that just opened on Feb 2nd! They have have in-house clothing, custom fittings, a plus line, and shoes for smaller feet. Online store opens in April. (See our post about them.)

Unbound Apparel: Sweet tees and hats to celebrate gender nonconformity. Prices range from $7-15.

Veer NYC: Curated androgynous clothing. No clothes yet, but you can support their Indiegogo campaign here. I recommend the $25 option, because you’ll get a $25 gift certificate when their store opens. Great deal! 

Wildfang: Curated tomboy clothes for people with curves. Opening shop on their website in the spring. Join their mailing list for updates, and add them on Facebook and Twitter . (See our post about them.) 

If there are any other companies you believe should be on this list, message me!

UPDATED FEB 8: Made wording changes to be more inclusive of MAAB trans* folk looking to wear androgynous clothes. 

Thanks to spasmsofreethought and obsidionalis for additions + everyone who commented!

- Sonia

03

Feb

The Soft Butch’s Beginning Professional Wardrobe

Dolphinlegs asked: So I’ll soon be transitioning from a student to a professional, and I looked around and was like “hmm, I own no professional clothes at all.” And I really have no idea where to start. I was wondering what tips you have on dressing for a professional job interview/ dressing professionally in general. I’m not really the type of lady who would feel comfortable wearing a suit and tie, but would prefer something a little less masculine. Perhaps something on the more “soft butch” side?

To me, the difference between dressing “soft butch” and full-on masculine is the way the cut of the clothes fits your body. The actual pieces; slacks, button-ups, ties, blazers, pocket squares etc, are all the same. But I’d look for professional menswear inspired clothes that fit your gender presentation. You’ll probably have the most luck in the women’s section. There are tons of more feminine suit and tie combos out there that are cut to show off curves, and then everything in between.

image
(from queerbois.com)

Here are my tips for establishing your new wardrobe as an aspiring soft butch professional. You might tailor this further depending on your field and location. If once you start working there you see people being more casual, follow their lead and take it down a notch. But as far as first impressions go:

  1. For pants and blazers, choose conservative colors such as grey, black, navy, army green, and khaki. For shirts and sweaters go for white, burgundy, blues, grays, light pinks, and greens. Ties and pocket squares can add pops of color, but nothing too bright or crazy.
  2. Blazers and sport coats! Maybe even with elbow patches. Check out H&MTopshop, J.Crew, Marimacho.
  3. Khakis/ dress pants: Go to town. Once you find a cut that you like, don’t be afraid to buy it in multiple colors! I love the fit of the Gap’s pants. Zara’s are also sweet. Don’t roll the cuffs.
  4. Unless you’re interviewing at the most prestigious legal firm, rock separate pieces rather than full-on suits. It’s cheaper, and easier to combine things that fit well. See Blake’s piece on suit separates.
  5. For footwear: derbies, brogues, oxfords, fancier saddle shoes, wingtips, and loafers are all great choices. No sneakers, boat shoes, or sandals. 
  6. You’ll need at least one black belt and one brown belt. Avoid big, decorative buckles with angel wings and skulls etc. on them. Match your belt with your shoes.
  7. Sweaters and cardigans are great, but go for higher-end sweaters that fit well and don’t look frumpy. Check out the ones at Everlane, Banana Republic, J. Crew
  8. Make sure your shirt fits well; getting it tailored if necessary. Depending on the level of formality, you might need to only wear long-sleeve shirts. If it’s less formal: In the summer, short sleeve button-ups are a good choice! (Ta-da) Stay away from polos, shirts with western detailing, and flannel. Always keep your shirt tucked in.
  9. Don’t shy away from neck ties and bow ties! They can break up an outfit and add another element or color or texture. But keep it snug with the top button buttoned; not loosened.
  10. Carry a briefcase, portfolio, or professional backpack.
  11. Iron! It makes a huge difference!

Did I leave something out? Add it to the comments!

image
(from brokeandbespoke.tumblr.com)

image
(from queerplusfashion.tumblr.com)image

Ox-1 Portrait Briefcase with detachable backpack straps, formink.com for $59.00

image
(from marksandersphotographer.blogspot.com)

image
(from i-dream-of-dapper.tumblr.com)

image
(from thebespokedudes.com)

Congratulations! With the right outfit, you are halfway to being a Power Queer.

- Sonia

Follow Qwear: FACEBOOK | TWITTER | BLOGLOVIN | PINTEREST

14

Jan

Anonymous asked: Hi Blake,I love, love, love a good menswear vest to go under jackets, etc., but I find them so hard to find. I am a plus size woman and I'm only 5'3'', so, if I find them large enough, they are usually too long. Have you got a solution for a dapper dyke like me?

Blake says: Hey there! I certainly understand the problem with finding proper fitting clothes. If they’re too small here, they’re too big there. Men’s clothes can be hit or miss as far as fit is concerned because they are not made with curves in mind. 

Not all women’s vests are overtly feminine, especially nowadays (I sound so old. I’m not sure if I can use “nowadays” at the age of 19. Whatever.) The key, as with anything, is knowing where to look. I’m not sure where you’re located, but the Qwear Forum would be a great place to find stores in your area! Outside of women’s vests, I suggest trying out new brands, specifically ones that offer slim fit. The body fits a little closer and the rest of the vest is usually shorter. The idea behind “slim” clothes is less fabric, better fit. We weren’t sure about the tailoring possibilities for suit vests, so we consulted with Rae of the The Handsome Butch  who is a a clothier. She said it’s very hard because the buttons go all the way to the bottom.

If you can afford a $115 vest, Marimacho makes a snazzy one that comes in XL and XXL:

dapper lesbian suit vest

The Brooklyn Vest, available at Marimacho

If you really want to drop some dough, Shaz Riley at the The Butch Clothing Company can always whip up a custom vest for you starting at £200 (approx. $322). But most likely, you’ll be able to find something affordable if you shop around long enough. Keep looking; the right clothes are out there.

10

Dec

Fourteen’s Versatile Queer Wedding Attire

I hadn’t heard of Fourteen until I ran into long-time Boston Dyke March organizer, Christine Hurley and got to talking about my Passion for Fashion (happens within 3 to 5 seconds.) She introduced me to this new queer wedding attire company, founded by lesbian/queer wedding planner Bernadette Smith. And now after getting the chance to talk with Bernadette and Fourteen fashion designer Marialexandra myself, I’ve become wildly impressed with their efforts to combine creativity and craftwomanship to fill the gaping holes in the world of lesbian and FAAB gender non-conforming formal wear.

lesbian wedding clothing

There are several queer clothing companies out there now making their mark (Marimacho, The Butch Clothing Company, Saint Harridan, and Androgyny; among others) and each one has their unique offerings. But unlike many of these companies, Fourteen also designs for mid-spectrum folks looking for non-dress options that still embrace their curves. By offering 2 fits options: Standard fit and Boy fit, Fourteen serves a wide range of gender presentations. And each separate is very versatile in terms of how you choose to wear it. Wouldn’t this velvet jacket look also amazing with a billowy blouse?

lesbian wedding clothing

Velvet Jacket, $414 

The team got a head start on research through Bernadette’s years of work as a wedding planner. When they started Fourteen, they conducted many focus groups to ensure satisfying everyone’s needs when it came to fit, style, and varying body types. Marialexandra observed people putting on the clothes to get a sense of how their previous clothing had fallen short of their needs. Most of us, when putting on ill-fitted shirts, tug things here and there to get them to fit right. When the participants tried on Fourteen’s clothes, all their fit problems went away for the first time. (woah, imagine if you didn’t have to tug your shirt down to get it to fit over your hips properly!) Fourteen aims to create well-fitted garments for the whole range of bodies, including those who bind and pack or are post-op.

lesbian wedding clothing

Solid colored silk shantung bow tie, $64

Available now on their website are a velvet jacket and a Sateen jacket with pockets, each in several classic colors; six vests (one of them has sequins inside!), 2 dress shirts in 2 lengths for untucked and tucked wearing; 3 pants; and 9 pieces of neckwear made to match the garments, available in several sizes to accommodate those with smaller necks and shorter torsos. The designs are edgy, creative, and vintage inspired. It’s clear that designer Marialexandra has a talent for understanding what queers need and want in their formal garments.

One specialty Marialexandra told me about was hidden chest darts. For the boy fit, Fourteen is keeping the sides straight up and down, and using hidden chest darts to leave room in the chest area. This technique is very uncommon, and something none of us have seen on off-the-rack clothing. (Chances are The Butch Clothing Company uses them too, but Shaz won’t give away her secrets!)

As Fourteen continues to get off the ground, they will release more clothing outside of formal wear! Marialexandra is already working on several designs for underwear, binders, and swimwear! All available in about 6 months. And further down the line; maternity clothes! Can’t wait to get my hands on some of these. 

Like Fourteen on Facebook for the chance to win one of their reversible silk ties! And, make sure to add them on Twitter and Pinterest to keep up with everything this amazing company is doing!

(Photo cred: Patty Nash Photography)

25

Oct

The Style Manual: Fashion Council to the Rescue

I’m so thrilled that I was invited to join Autostraddle’s Style Council. Check out my advice about finding men’s suits that fit!

15

Sep

Suit Vests Made for the Queers

Anonymous asked: I’m genderqueer, and present on the masculine side of androgynous. i would love to rock the suit vest look, but i’m apple-shaped with a small chest, and getting a vest that’s big enough for my tummy means the chest is way huge. are there any retailers that make androgynous vests for the female-bodied that downplay the curves, or is tailoring my only option?

There are two brands I know of that make vests specifically for people who want to downplay their curves. The Butch Clothing Company, based in England, custom-makes suits for female bodied people looking for men’s style suits. Shaz Riley, the founder, travels a lot to meet with clients, but she also does Skype consultations. Marimacho is a brand based out of Brooklyn that makes lifesaving clothes based off of timeless menswear pieces.

The Brooklyn Vest, available at Marimacho for $115.The perfect complement to our blazer, our vest helps create a masculine shape while minimizing the appearance of a larger chest. Like our blazer, it features an outer-shell comprised of lightweight herringbone wool, full silk lining in our signature cog print, and metal buttons in an antique finish.”

The Butch Clothing Company custom-makes each piece, giving you a choice of fabric, lining color, buttons, etc. Here is one of their pieces. Waistcoats alone start at £200 (approx. $322)

Otherwise, I would suggest tailoring. Find a vest that fits your tummy, and then have a tailor take in the upper part, most likely on the side seam. Good luck!

Related Posts: Interview with Shaz Riley of the Butch Clothing CompanyMen’s Vest Trick

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