Since there are so many new queer brands starting up, I thought I’d make a list of our favs! If you have the means to do so, I recommend checking these out when considering your next purchase/getting your hair did! You’re especially lucky if you live in San Francisco, New York City, or London. But many of them have online shops.

Androgyny: High-quality androgynous fitting button-ups for women/people with curves in 5 colors and patterns, priced at $125. No plus sizes yet. (Qwear feature coming soon!)

Bindle & Keep: Bespoke menswear company in NYC. Rae of The Handsome Butch works there, and she’s awesome! Email her for fittings: Rachel@BindleandKeep.com.

Chrysalis: First ever lingerie store for MAAB folks! In NYC, online store opening in Spring. Amazinggg/hot vid on website. (See Huffington Post article about them.)

Fourteen: High-end, unique suit separates for weddings and formal events, made in the USA. Their styles come in every size possible, and in two fits: boy and regular. (See our post about them.)

Marimacho: Brooklyn-based masculine clothing brand for female assigned/identified folks. They have 10 items in their shop including a blazer, suit vest, classic white shirt, bomber jacket, and swim suit.

Open Barbers: Haircuts for people of all genders! In London. Pricing is on a donation basis. Email them at openbarbers@gmail.com for appointments.

PHRESH CUTZ: “A spot for queers and friends of all kinds to kick it with like-minded individuals over drinks, snacks, and beats while tightening up their look!” In Brooklyn. (See Autostraddle post about them)

RodeoH (NSFW): Adorable, comfortable harnesses slash cute underwear. Available online and at in-store locations across the globe.

Saint Harridan: Off-the-rack masculine suits for female assigned people. Wide rang of sizes. 100 Pre-orders taken, accepting more soon. (See our post about them.) 

Tomboy Tailors: A retail shop in San Francisco that just opened on Feb 2nd! They have have in-house clothing, custom fittings, a plus line, and shoes for smaller feet. Online store opens in April. (See our post about them.)

Unbound Apparel: Sweet tees and hats to celebrate gender nonconformity. Prices range from $7-15.

Veer NYC: Curated androgynous clothing. No clothes yet, but you can support their Indiegogo campaign here. I recommend the $25 option, because you’ll get a $25 gift certificate when their store opens. Great deal! 

Wildfang: Curated tomboy clothes for people with curves. Opening shop on their website in the spring. Join their mailing list for updates, and add them on Facebook and Twitter . (See our post about them.) 

If there are any other companies you believe should be on this list, message me!

UPDATED FEB 8: Made wording changes to be more inclusive of MAAB trans* folk looking to wear androgynous clothes. 

Thanks to spasmsofreethought and obsidionalis for additions + everyone who commented!

- Sonia

Anonymous asked: Hi Blake,I love, love, love a good menswear vest to go under jackets, etc., but I find them so hard to find. I am a plus size woman and I'm only 5'3'', so, if I find them large enough, they are usually too long. Have you got a solution for a dapper dyke like me?

Blake says: Hey there! I certainly understand the problem with finding proper fitting clothes. If they’re too small here, they’re too big there. Men’s clothes can be hit or miss as far as fit is concerned because they are not made with curves in mind. 

Not all women’s vests are overtly feminine, especially nowadays (I sound so old. I’m not sure if I can use “nowadays” at the age of 19. Whatever.) The key, as with anything, is knowing where to look. I’m not sure where you’re located, but the Qwear Forum would be a great place to find stores in your area! Outside of women’s vests, I suggest trying out new brands, specifically ones that offer slim fit. The body fits a little closer and the rest of the vest is usually shorter. The idea behind “slim” clothes is less fabric, better fit. We weren’t sure about the tailoring possibilities for suit vests, so we consulted with Rae of the The Handsome Butch  who is a a clothier. She said it’s very hard because the buttons go all the way to the bottom.

If you can afford a $115 vest, Marimacho makes a snazzy one that comes in XL and XXL:

The Brooklyn Vest, available at Marimacho

If you really want to drop some dough, Shaz Riley at the The Butch Clothing Company can always whip up a custom vest for you starting at £200 (approx. $322). But most likely, you’ll be able to find something affordable if you shop around long enough. Keep looking; the right clothes are out there.

I hadn’t heard of Fourteen until I ran into long-time Boston Dyke March organizer, Christine Hurley and got to talking about my Passion for Fashion (happens within 3 to 5 seconds.) She introduced me to this new queer wedding attire company, founded by lesbian/queer wedding planner Bernadette Smith. And now after getting the chance to talk with Bernadette and Fourteen fashion designer Marialexandra myself, I’ve become wildly impressed with their efforts to combine creativity and craftwomanship to fill the gaping holes in the world of lesbian and FAAB gender non-conforming formal wear.

There are several queer clothing companies out there now making their mark (Marimacho, The Butch Clothing Company, Saint Harridan, and Androgyny; among others) and each one has their unique offerings. But unlike many of these companies, Fourteen also designs for mid-spectrum folks looking for non-dress options that still embrace their curves. By offering 2 fits options: Standard fit and Boy fit, Fourteen serves a wide range of gender presentations. And each separate is very versatile in terms of how you choose to wear it. Wouldn’t this velvet jacket look also amazing with a billowy blouse?

Velvet Jacket, $414 

The team got a head start on research through Bernadette’s years of work as a wedding planner. When they started Fourteen, they conducted many focus groups to ensure satisfying everyone’s needs when it came to fit, style, and varying body types. Marialexandra observed people putting on the clothes to get a sense of how their previous clothing had fallen short of their needs. Most of us, when putting on ill-fitted shirts, tug things here and there to get them to fit right. When the participants tried on Fourteen’s clothes, all their fit problems went away for the first time. (woah, imagine if you didn’t have to tug your shirt down to get it to fit over your hips properly!) Fourteen aims to create well-fitted garments for the whole range of bodies, including those who bind and pack or are post-op.

Solid colored silk shantung bow tie, $64

Available now on their website are a velvet jacket and a Sateen jacket with pockets, each in several classic colors; six vests (one of them has sequins inside!), 2 dress shirts in 2 lengths for untucked and tucked wearing; 3 pants; and 9 pieces of neckwear made to match the garments, available in several sizes to accommodate those with smaller necks and shorter torsos. The designs are edgy, creative, and vintage inspired. It’s clear that designer Marialexandra has a talent for understanding what queers need and want in their formal garments.

One specialty Marialexandra told me about was hidden chest darts. For the boy fit, Fourteen is keeping the sides straight up and down, and using hidden chest darts to leave room in the chest area. This technique is very uncommon, and something none of us have seen on off-the-rack clothing. (Chances are The Butch Clothing Company uses them too, but Shaz won’t give away her secrets!)

As Fourteen continues to get off the ground, they will release more clothing outside of formal wear! Marialexandra is already working on several designs for underwear, binders, and swimwear! All available in about 6 months. And further down the line; maternity clothes! Can’t wait to get my hands on some of these. 

Like Fourteen on Facebook for the chance to win one of their reversible silk ties! And, make sure to add them on Twitter and Pinterest to keep up with everything this amazing company is doing!

(Photo cred: Patty Nash Photography)

Anonymous asked: im getting married :) where can i find a tailor wiling to custom make a suit for me?

Congratulations! The Butch Clothing Company is worth checking out. I interviewed them here.

I also just got in touch with Rae of The Handsome Butch, who among many things is a clothier with Bindle & Keep in NY. She specializes in suits for butch/queer types. Her email is Rachel@BindleandKeep.com. 

Your location would be helpful so that other people in your area might be able to recommend local tailors. I can update this answer with your location if you want to let me know.

Anonymous asked: I’m genderqueer, and present on the masculine side of androgynous. i would love to rock the suit vest look, but i’m apple-shaped with a small chest, and getting a vest that’s big enough for my tummy means the chest is way huge. are there any retailers that make androgynous vests for the female-bodied that downplay the curves, or is tailoring my only option?

There are two brands I know of that make vests specifically for people who want to downplay their curves. The Butch Clothing Company, based in England, custom-makes suits for female bodied people looking for men’s style suits. Shaz Riley, the founder, travels a lot to meet with clients, but she also does Skype consultations. Marimacho is a brand based out of Brooklyn that makes lifesaving clothes based off of timeless menswear pieces.

The Brooklyn Vest, available at Marimacho for $115. “The perfect complement to our blazer, our vest helps create a masculine shape while minimizing the appearance of a larger chest. Like our blazer, it features an outer-shell comprised of lightweight herringbone wool, full silk lining in our signature cog print, and metal buttons in an antique finish.”

The Butch Clothing Company custom-makes each piece, giving you a choice of fabric, lining color, buttons, etc. Here is one of their pieces. Waistcoats alone start at £200 (approx. $322)

Otherwise, I would suggest tailoring. Find a vest that fits your tummy, and then have a tailor take in the upper part, most likely on the side seam. Good luck!

Related Posts: Interview with Shaz Riley of the Butch Clothing Company, Men’s Vest Trick

Today* is the one year anniversary of Dyke Duds’ launch! That’s right! My very first post was on June 6th, 2011. Thanks so much for following, you guys! My goal was to create a forum for queers to celebrate our styles and share clothing tips, and it’s been really amazing to see my vision blossom into such an internet sexyfest of little queerling fashionistas. I can’t believe that in one year I went from being like “what the fuck is Tumblr” to having the honor of featuring a whole bunch of famous people like Everyone is Gay and Jenelle Hutcherson, joining forces with Ashley Yielding, collabing with Unbound Apparel, writing for Diva Magazine online and Equally Wed, having a feature on Dapper Q, and interviewing the Butch Clothing Company and Ratio Clothing. But my favorite part has been getting to see YOUR outfits and hear your experiences!

A few fun facts:

1. The first three posts of Dyke Duds are written by my best friend Thomas, because I had never blogged before and thought I didn’t know how to write about fashion.

2. I used to think I looked bad in ties and bow ties, until my former-girlfriend/friend convinced me otherwise. I now wear them all the time and I truly believe that everyone looks good in them.

3. When I started Dyke Duds, I identified as a lesbian. Now I don’t! But hey, it’s still an easy way for people to find us on google.

4. I used the Tumblr handle “lesbo-fashion” until someone in my queer circle came up with “Dyke Duds” during a brainstorming sesh about 2 weeks in.

Thanks for following, and if I haven’t heard from you yet, please drop me a line! I’m very friendly and I like personalized mail.

<3

Sonia I’m-a-Big-Queer Oram

*Well, yesterday actually. I got distracted by the pretty sunglasses and forgot.

I was delighted to interview Shaz Riley, the founder of the Butch Clothing Company (BCC). The BCC creates some kick-ass, beautiful crafted, and carefully bespoken men’s style suits for female-bodied people. Doing this interview has made me dream of getting one some day when I get married or, you know, get invited to a celebrity event. A savvy businesswoman, Shaz won’t give away all her secrets on how she manages to hide women’s curves so well. I suppose that would be like me giving away my great aunt’s kugel recipe. I think this speaks to how special her company is and the quality of their work. Check out the BCC’s Facebook page to see all sorts of butches in action rocking her beautiful suits.
The mission of the BCC is grounded in serving butch women, but they welcome clients of all identities and gender presentations. Shaz even mentioned to me that bridesmen and best men work with her so that their tuxes can match their butch brides’. So Thomas, I’d keep a couple hundred euro on the back burner if I were you.

Can you tell us a bit about all the kinds of suits you offer? 
Our design process is fully interactive with our clients. We look at all elements of detailing that make up a suit. Choice of fabrics — of which we hold over 120 — specifically chosen to work on any woman, no matter their body shape. Clients love our garment linings; we carry over 80 in numerous colours and textures. We look at collar types from classic notched to skinny peaked to even the Ghandi style Nehru. We look at number of buttons on the jackets, vests, and cuffs. We look at pocket style, collar shape for shirts etc. and then together we design the perfect suit for you!
 
How do you ensure that your suits fit your customers who are not working on it with you in person? 
With our overseas clients we offer video Skype consultations. These work identically to face-to-face consults except that — under my careful supervision — our clients and a friend, spouse, or family member do the actual measurement taking. I am there on camera every step of the way, but I do send a BCC measurement guide as well! To date, our Skype consultations and the end results have been exceptionally successful.
 
What do you say to people who ask, “Why don’t you just get a women’s suit?” 
I explain that women’s suits on butch women are as un-wearable as ill-fitted men’s suits. To put on lady’s attire takes away from who we are — it detracts from our butch identity. The curve cuts, the darts, the shoulder padding style etc. is all very feminine. Butches, by their very nature, are defined as masculine women, and so most of us would feel a little like we were ‘in drag’ if we were to purchase a lady’s suit. My company is just as much about the butch identity and my personal understanding of that as it is about the clothing.
What are your dreams for expanding your company?
We have had a 60% turnover increase in the past 12 months and we would love to see that trend continue, as it reflects the fact we are reaching a global market. I would like every butch woman in the world to know about us. Obviously we don’t just cater to women who identify as butch; we cater to any woman who wants to have a bespoke suit based on a classic male style and latest male fashion trend. I originally set the company up for women like me who always buy men’s clothing but seldom find a guy’s suit that fits well. 

What general techniques do you have for women who want to tailor clothes to hide their curves?
We spent 10 months in research and development constructing the suits, so on the outside they look and fit as well on a butch women as they would on a guy, but internally the construction reflects how we handle the butch shape including chest and shoulder areas, waist and thigh, crotch, etc. Our suits are based on classic male styles so by design the classic shape and structure means that curves aren’t accentuated. We can’t hide the chest completely, but by not accentuating it in a way ladies garments do, we are providing tailoring solutions that mean women’s curves are not a focal point, and therefore becomes no issue in the general fit of suit. This was one of the main and crucial elements of the design and construction for me.
 
Do any of your clientele bind, or do you take chest binding into consideration when you create a suit? 
We can handle any situation. It’s all about taking the correct measurement profile at the start and talking to our clients about what they would be comfortable with.
 
What does being butch mean to you, and why did you decide to use it in your company name?
Being butch for me is part of what defines me. I am not a guy nor do I wish to be, but I am not a feminine woman either. I am the best of both worlds. Society and maybe even our own community have attempted to turn the word ‘Butch’ into a negative, and by calling the company The Butch Clothing Company I feel we have reclaimed the word. Butch for me is my lifestyle, my gender, my personality. Butch is not a generic term used to describe individuals who are all the same; it is to me a term defined by each individuals own style, their own personality, attributes, and attitude; and it is a universal reflection on those of us who just get and accept what it is to be a non-feminine identified woman! I would never have wanted to be anything other than butch!