We recently received an inquiry about leather v. rubber soles. (you, know, the bottom of your shoes). Most menswear blogs loathe rubber soles; they’re new, a-traditional, and less expensive. Menswear, in all its own horn-tooting, is all about tradition and craftspersonship (because let’s be honest, your “hand-formed” leather soles were probably made by women who were being exploited). Rubber soles fly in the face of tradition and “craftspersonship” because they’re produced by machines. We say this: know your clothes and do what YOU want.

LEATHER

Barker Grant Calf Leather Brogue Shoes, Cedar

The Good

Leather soled shoes literally have leather for soles. These soles are thin, low-profile, traditional, and delicate. Leather soles are great for the traditional vibe; they are beautiful and classic.

The Bad

Leather soles, however, cannot withstand a lot of wear, especially outside and double-especially rain, snow, etc. Leather soles require new soles somewhat frequently. New soles run $15 and up. (Note: If you walk around on wet concrete or stone in leather soles, you will bust your ass! My brother suffered a concussion from slipping on slick marble on Christmas Eve!) 

You can also buy rubber overshoes for your leather soles, and your weather problem is solved. 

[Update, Jan 3] Ooops… left this out: leather soles are also bad because they come from baby animals, and animals are so much better when they’re alive and not slaughtered/on your feet. So if you must buy leather, buy vintage, because otherwise it’s brutal, inhumane, and wasteful of our precious resources to continue the exploitative and inhumane economy of leather production.

RUBBER

Calvin Klein Men’s Felix Oxford, featured recently on AnnMarie at her WEDDING

The Good

Rubber soles are infinitely more comfortable and more flexible than leather soles. They are thicker and made for exploring the wilderness. Rubber soles range from hiking shoes to vibram soles to crepe soles. 

The Bad

However, rubber doesn’t breathe at all. You will have to wear socks with these shoes. Also, rubber soles are newer than leather soles; they’re thicker and not as classy nor seen as classic. When you finally have to resole these babies, you may have to send them back to the makers (like, for Red Wings Boots, resoles costs $100…), or you may not be able to resole them at all. (However, this is a minute point; it should take years to wear out serious rubber soles.)

As for which one you should buy…it’s about aesthetics and your pocket book. If you really like leather soles and you can afford the upkeep (new soles, leather treatment, etc.), go for it. If you want a pair of shoes you can wear wherever, whenever, get some rubber soles!

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A Bicycle Built For Two is one of my new of my new favorite sources for queer formal wear inspiration! A beautiful display of carefully picked lesbian and queer wedding photos. I was scrolling the other day and found this dashing couple, AnnMarie & Anne:

Obvi I had to get in touch with them and ask them about their outfits.

AnnMarie (suit, bow tie) told me, “I knew what I wanted to look like on my wedding day from the time I was little. I am obsessed with English styled suiting from the mid century. I am also equally obsessed with classic menswear. I wanted my look to be dapper and polished and really show my personality. I was born a 67 year old man and I really wanted that to show through.” She wound up with this amazing vintage, bespoke suit made in 1967, from the Etsy shop, Brightwall, and then she got it tailored. 

Anne told me that she prefers simple dresses, and had surprising luck at David’s Bridal! ”I wanted a dress, but I hate shiny fabric, beads, sparkles… Basically most wedding gowns. They just aren’t me. I wanted simple and clean. I found a lot of beautiful vintage dresses that were all too teeny tiny, so against my instincts, we checked out David’s Bridal. And we found the dress! It’s shantung, which is more matte, and structured (learn something new every day). And it has pockets!! Overall I wanted to feel like myself, and for me that means simple and classic, but with fun details.”

AnnMarie:
Suit: Etsy shop, Brightwall + tailoring
Tie and Pocket Square: Custom made through Etsy shop Divinedomestication.
Vest, Suspenders and Socks: Men’s Wearhouse + tailoring
Shirt: Blank Label
Shoes: Calvin Klein Men’s Felix Oxford, bought on Amazon. 
Hat: Sugarcube in Philly

Anne:
Dress: David’s Bridal
Shoes: Etsy shop, Walkinonair
Hair comb: Anastasia’s Antiques in Philadelphia
Pearls: AnnMarie’s grandmother’s
Watch: Anne’s grandmother’s

(Photography by Philadelphia Wedding Photographer, Mike Allebach of Allebach Photography)

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We got great submission from another adorable tomboy-type in bold colored jeans. Getting one great pair of bold colored jeans can REALLY enhance your wardrobe. Especially if you’re like me and have 5 light blue shirts and not enough to add for contrast. If you’re nervous about adding too much color, this maroon is a tame choice to start out with. I really like a lot of the colors CottonOn has right now. 

Shirt: Thrift store find, tags gone
Long sleeved tee: Gap
Jeans: CottonOn
Belt: Calvin Klein
Shoes: Thrift store find

Follow Hannah: litheos.tumblr.com

Some more boldy colored pants inspiration: GQ Cover Material, Gay Male Inspired Style, Show Us Your Color!

Anonymous asked: So my style is pretty masculine-of-center, and I've never been quite sure of what to wear to jump under the covers. During the summer I usually stick with a t-shirt and some boxers, but what do I wear when it's too chilly for that combo?

Try sweatpants or athletic wear, like track pants. Those are super comfy to sleep in. I find them more comfortable than the men’s cotton sleepwear pants.

And looks dammmn good in them. I bring you my favorite outfits from his 7 Days of Dapper feature. 

Blazer: Calvin Klein
Shirt: Alfani
Belt: Perry Ellis
Pants: Pacsun Emerica Belmont Twill Pants
Shoes: Florsheim

“I love whipping out my suit for formal events such as seeing the Boston Symphony Orchestra or the Boston Ballet.”

Suit: Calvin Klein
Shirt: Van Heusen
Tie: UBC
Shoes: G.H. Bass

7 Days of Dapper
Photography: Sonrisa Murray-Fox

Don’t mess with this kid cause she’s got badass hair, fancy clothes, and awesome kicks.

Glasses: Ray-bans
Blazer: Saks Fifth Avenue
T shirt: Stussy
Leopard Belt: Scout

Glasses: Ray-bans
Sweater: Saks Fifth Avenue
Button up: Ralph Lauren
Jeans: 7 for all Mankind

Black Button Up: Calvin Klein
Jacket: Calvin Klein
Red Belt: Gap

Cardigan: Tommy Hilfiger
Button Up: Calvin Klein
Jeans: Saks Fifth Avenue
Bag: Calvin Klein
Shoes: Converse

Follow Tristan: http://tristansayshey.tumblr.com

f1ux asked: Try Calvin Klein's Microfiber trunks. They're a bit on the pricey side, but oh so comfy and sexy.

Thanks! Link

Notice hir use of the tie clip. 

Hat: no name; flea market
Shirt: Macy’s, No Retreat Black Label
Tie: Nordstrom’s, Calvin Klein “extreme slim”
Belt: Bvlgari, Hir dad’s closet

Hat: no name; flea market
Shirt: Macy’s, No Retreat Black Label
Bow tie: TJ Maxx, Countess Mara
Suspenders: Kohls’s, Dockers

Follow the dapper gentleperson: http://genderbendingriotqueer.tumblr.com/