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Sonny (Sonia) Oram

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A.D.

Courtney (petite menswear)

Rae (Tailoring)

Raimi & Lee (hair)

Blake (plus sizes)



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17

Dec

Collars Inside or Outside of Sweaters: Let’s Discuss

My friend Elizabeth posed the “collar inside or outside of the sweater” question here recently, and since then I’ve found the variety of opinions on the subject quite astonishing. Some people think you should ALWAYS tuck your collar in. Others think you’d be dumb to hide it. I certainly love wearing it out when I’m in one of my brightly colored polos. Otherwise, I usually prefer to tuck it in these days; though I still dig the untucked look on the younger me. (This feels like sooo long ago!)

Here are more thoughts from A.D.Fit For a FemmeThe Tie Guy, and Anthony from Closet Freaks.

collar and sweater
INSIDE (from trashness.com)

A.D. says it’s all about the size and shape of the collar: “If the shirt has a relatively small collar, the neck is fitted, and the size of the sweater is fitted, then wearing it out is totally fine. If you’re wearing a button-down collar, wearing it in is necessarily required.” 

Well, I guess this guy failed:

collar outside of sweater
OUTSIDE (This picture has been circulated so much and I can’t find the source. If it’s yours, tell me!)

Should you try it at home? If you think you can handle it. 

Fit For a Femme prefers the untucked look for both her tomboy and herself. She says, “I swear to God if I left my collar hidden under the neck of a sweater I’d feel as sheepish as if I’d tucked my silk blouse into my underpants.”

collar outside of sweater
OUTSIDE for the tomboy (from fitforafemme.com)

FFAF also reminded me of the wonderful world of detachable collars. She says, “The flamboyant layered collar has taken the femme, girly girl world by storm the past few seasons, and I truly believe the revolution began when Eleven Objects (awesome gals) started making detachable collars; really luxe, beautiful, kind of punk glam things you could and should wear with anything, which made collars of all kinds — detached or otherwise — super hip again. It shows no signs of going away anytime soon.”

I got M to sneak a pic of FFAF modeling a fabulous collar; this one the Blushing Pearl Peter Pan collar from JewelMint:

Detachable Collar
Detachable Collar

OUTSIDE for the femme. In case you were lusting after it, her sweater is from the Everlane Cashmere Collection.

On the other side of the spectrum, The Tie Guy is adamantly against untucked collars. He recently agreed with one of his readers that wearing the collar outside is dorky, said that you should “LEAVE IT IN!” and concluded “cheers to people who understand how to look good!” Of course, The Tie Guy was talking to an audience of primarily male identified people with a fairly straight-laced style aesthetic.

But what about this fashion model, Terron Wood, looking totally fly with the collar not only untucked, but popped out??

Collar outside of sweater
OUTSIDE (from forums.thefashionspot.com)

To The Tie Guy’s credit, if I caught someone else looking like this, I might think it was a result of them forgetting to look in the mirror before they left the house. But that’s all part of the fun when you break rules.

Collar inside of sweater
INSIDE

Anthony from Closet Freaks took a similar approach to A.D., saying, “I’m always a fan of top-button buttoned, collar tucked in. Sort of a geek chic approach. There are always exceptions though, and I guess it depends on your mood and the individual collar. A blue chambray with the collar half popped for casual look works. If it’s a spread collar, probably wear it out unless the neckline of the sweater is very high. For a dress shirt I’d say keep it in, keep it dressy.”

Collar inside of sweater
INSIDE. Anthony from Closet Freaks.

What do I think after hearing all this? For masculine aesthetics, tucking in the collar is considered more clean-cut and formal; and I will keep that in mind for future collar tucking-decisions, but not necessarily abide by it. For more traditionally feminine styles, collars are often meant as a decorative feature and are best worn outside. Finally, there are always exceptions to every rule. Especially if you’re wearing orange pants.

So! Which do YOU prefer?

- Sonia

02

Oct

Shopping on a Budget: Plus-Sized Masculine Work Clothes

By Guest Blogger, Blake

Shopping for well-priced work clothes in plus sizes can be hard. No fear! I have some staple pieces that will keep your budget in check while also giving you a professional look. Here are some items to give your wardrobe a professional boost with inspiration for people of all shapes.

1. Can I say cardigans more than once????
Cardigans are a wonderful way to class up any outfit while providing comfort and an element of androgyny (men’s and women’s cardigans are virtually identical.) In addition, they cross over well from day/work wear to nightlife wear. I suggest buying a cardigan in gray, blue, black, and a statement color. I bought most of my cardigans from a Tommy Hilfiger outlet mall in Williamsburg, VA. However, if you don’t live near an out mall, I also like the cardigans over at Old Navy for the price point. 

androgynous cardigan
(source: gentleman-forever.tumblr.com)

2. Vests!
I currently have two vests that I go to whenever I am trying to look more put together and professional. Vests are a great multi-purpose form of clothing. You can pretty much wear then with anything! Goodwill or a comparable thrift store usually has some great options in all sizes.


androgynous suit vest

(source: covermenmag.com)

3. Collared Shirts
Just like cardigans and vests, collared shirts have crossover appeal. If you have trouble finding one that fits you, keep looking! They come in all cuts, sizes, colors, and patterns! You can survive off of owning 5 to 7 shirts — one white, another light blue, and 3 to 5 of your choice. Get some with button-down collars, and some without so that you have a range of of casual and fancy (button-down = casual.) The combinations of cardigans, vests, and collared shirts are endlesssssssss. I recommend Saddlebred collared shirts and Ralph Lauren for plus sizes; they fit me well. Just shop around for what fits you best. 


androgynous button-up

(source: maxxanch.tumblr.com)

4. Blazers
I have had GREAT luck at Goodwill. However, thrift shops are a mixed bag. Lane Bryant has some really nice blazers. The arms fit well enough that I can bend them and the body of the blazer fits perfectly to my curves. I suggest that you look out for a sale; Lane Bryant can be pricey (I went during a sale and got two blazers for $90, not bad). A blazer should fall below the waistline but not go past your bum. The sleeves should be in between the knuckle and the wrist. 

Lane Bryant Herringbone jacket
Herringbone jacket, available at Lane Bryant for $89.95

5. Pants 
Buy pants cheap and get them tailored. I would shoot for khakis and a light weight dress material. Try to stay away from the Poly and Ester twins. I find that slim leg pants are the most flattering look for any size. Have your tailor adjust your pants leg to about 9.5 inches to create the look (trust the tailor with the number of inches). I buy pants from all over, mainly Tommy Hilfiger on extremeeeee markdown and Old Navy during the holiday deal season. See my post about tailoring pants for more info.

Look for pants with these cuts:

Zara green pants
(source: panizsehatniaki.blogspot.com) Pants from Zara

Pants from Tommy Hilfiger
Pants from Tommy Hilfiger (source: he99.blogspot.com)

6. Shoes!
Shoes can make or break an outfit. No holes, no tears, not too broken in for the office. Out of all of the above basics, I recommend that you spend the most money on good quality shoes. I like Clarks desert boots and Bass Weejuns for the office.


Desert Boots
Desert Boots. Pick yours up at Topman, FarFetch, The Tannery, Infinity Shoes, or basically anywhere. (source: four-thirdsgentleman.tumblr.com)

bass weejuns androgynous shoes
Bass Weejuns (womens) available at Bass

Related Posts: Androgenizing With Ralph LaurenDiminishing Curves With Menswear

15

Jul

Anonymous asked: I'm a curvy queer but I'm small chested. So usually what ends up happening is that if I find a men's button down that fits my chest/shoulders it won't fit around my hip/stomach area. When I find a top that fits my hips/stomach it's over-sized in the chest which looks really awkward. I usually wear women's button downs but the collar on them is usually difficult to wear with a tie/bowtie. Any tips on women's shirts with tie appropriate collars or how to find a better fitting men's shirt?

Finding a men’s shirt that fits over your hips/stomach is the best off-the-rack solution to finding one that fits. But if you take it to a tailor, they will be able to take in the top on the side seam so that it fits better around your chest. Slim fit style shirts for men have the opposite shape (where the side seem tapers in at the bottom) so I don’t know why it wouldn’t work the other way around and look snazzy.

It would be also to cool hear experiences from queers with wide hips who’ve had top surgery or bind… anybody?

And I actually don’t know of any women’s shirts that have collars made for ties, but that’s a really good question! Does anyone know?

05

Jul

Casual Collar

If you are like me and can’t get enough of the collared shirts, slip a T-shirt over it and roll up the sleeves for a more casual look.

imageimage

Glasses: Adrienne Vittadini
T- Shirt: American Apparel with custom print by separate artist
Button-down Shirt: Gap “The Perfect Shirt”
Watch: Tikkr
Shorts: Old Navy “Women’s Perfect Khaki Bermudas”
Flip Flops: American Eagle Outfitters

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