Esquire Theme by Matthew Buchanan
Customization Design by Sonia Oram
19
Mar
Shirt: Everlane Men’s Oxford Smoke
Skinny Tie: Theory, bought at Loehmann’s
Glasses: SEE Eyewear
Watch: 666 Barcelona
Belt: J.Crew Leather Roller-Buckle
Pants: Gap Broken-in Straight Khakis, women’s
Shoes: Bobby from Boston
Tote: Everlane
Part 2 of my Dandy Winter Photoshoot series with Sam Murray! (Here’s her Tumblr/Maddow fan page.) I’m showing off my recent purchases from Everlane. Their men’s XS oxfords fit me well, aside from the collar being too big. See part 1.
12
Mar
Shirt: George boys, tailored
Glasses: SEE Eyewear
Suspenders: Bobby from Boston (Buttons sewed on myself)
Pants: Gap Broken-in Straight Khakis, women’s
Shoes: Suede Walk-over Derbys (Bought on sale at the Tannery)
Bow Tie: Michael Kors (Bought on sale at Loehmann’s)
First of 3 in my dandy winter photoshoot series with the amazing Sam Murray! Here’s her Tumblr/Maddow fan page.
08
Mar
By Guest Blogger, Liann
I think we all have some major struggs associated with finding the perfect pair of jeans. Typical women’s and men’s jeans never satisfied my needs. I didn’t like the thin material used with women’s jeans and they either accentuated my curves if I wore them above my hips, or displayed far too much backside if I sagged them. I also didn’t like the cut and style of typical “men’s” jeans: they were too baggy, had too much rise, and fit too tightly around my hips. And, no matter how I wore any of them, they never looked particularly clean-cut.
But a new-found love for jeans came back full throttle four years ago, when I permanently switched to wearing raw denim.
What is raw denim, you ask?
When you buy a pair of blue jeans, overwhelming chances are that they have already been treated in some way outside of the “cotton+indigo+weaving+sewing=jeans!” equation. Any type of fading, distressing, bleach spots, or frays are all purposely done by the producer to make them feel softer and look cool. Even stiff-feeling dark wash jeans have probably been hit with a resin coating to prevent color loss.
These jeans are the big kahuna when it comes to pre-distressing (from us.levi.com)
Raw denim (also sometimes called “dry denim”) does away with all of this. They generally have no stretch, feel as stiff as cardboard, and are a deep, near-black indigo when you first try them on (although they’ll bleed sky blue on everything). With raw denim, you’ll want your jeans to be anywhere from a bit tight to soul-constricting for the first few days. The differences in immediate comfort and freedom of movement between “jeggings” and non-stretch dry denim are very quickly apparent, but after a couple of weeks your jeans will begin to mold and fade perfectly to your body.
Since there’s no treatment to keep the indigo in the fabric, people generally avoid washing their jeans for as long as possible. A lot of people swear by not washing for 6+ months to develop a high-contrast fade, but that’s not really necessary. You shouldn’t wash them every day, but every 30 wears isn’t a problem either. I personally wear them until they start to reek, at which point I throw them in the bathtub with some detergent.
My own Gap Skinny Selvedge, left (4 days, 0 washes) and heavily patched APC New Cure, right (1+ year, 3 washes)
A lot of raw denim is also selvedge, meaning that it has a self-closing end on the outseam. Contrary to popular belief, selvedge edges (or lack thereof) don’t guarantee quality, but they do generally correlate with a higher quality final product because they are more expensive to produce. If you have jeans with a selvedge edge, it’s common practice to show them off by rolling up your jeans a bit.
Ellen DeGeneres showing off some selvedge on her 3Sixteen raw denim jeans
The quickest way to this dapper, androgynous look is probably APC. Lots of their fits are branded as unisex, which is virtually unheard of in the denim world and is proof of their ability to look fantastic on just about anyone.
If you’re looking for men’s raw denim that doesn’t accentuate curves while fitting well, look at the skinniest fits and lowest rises you can find. Also, you shouldn’t be concerned if your sizes are all over the place. When I was trying on two different Naked and Famous brand men’s jeans in the same size but different cuts, one was far too loose in the waistband but I couldn’t button up the other. This is just a side effect of not knowing exactly how, and where, they will sit on your body.
On that note, TRY THEM ON before you buy! I cannot emphasize this enough, especially for people with curves looking at men’s denim. Raw denim is finicky and expensive. I also recommend this for women’s raw denim, although Steven from Railcar Fine Goods helped me a lot in finding a well-fitting pair of Viper X001’s via e-mail. Also, don’t be scared if you have to make the jeans skinnier below the knees to achieve the perfect look – even “skinny” men’s denim doesn’t compare to the amount of tapering you are used to with women’s jeans. Denim Therapy offers this service for $40. As with most things, fit is most important.
The Sartorialist himself admits that his he bought raw denim that is too tight to wear comfortably…. Don’t emulate! (from thesartorialist.com)
Left, Zac Efron dressing down some well-worn APC’s (from upscalehype.com)
I know I’ve just made this seem like a lot of expensive work, but well-fitting raws will blow any jeans you currently own out of the water— I promise. Here are suggestions for skinny, low rise, and/or women-specific jeans. If you want an easier time with fitting, try the ones with some stretch:
Less Expensive (under $100):
Gap Skinny Selvedge
Uniqlo Slim Selvedge
Unbranded Skinny Selvedge
Levi’s Shrink to Fit
Expensive ($100-$201):
Naked and Famous Weird Guys/Skinny Guys
APC Hipster/Petit Standard/New Cure
Railcar Fine Goods Viper
3Sixteen Slim Tapered Fit
Really Expensive (you don’t want to know):
Samurai Geisha
Dior Homme Raw
Skull Jeans Linda
Pure Blue Japan Women’s Slim
The Flat Head Balder
Real Blue Japan Slim Tapered
06
Mar
Glasses: Ray-Ban
Xmas sweater: AE Outfitters
Khaki Pants: NEXT Generation (Not sold online; Kim got them in Burma. Similar at Gap and YESSTYLE)
Sneakers: Nike SB Dunk High Iguana
Trench Coat: Generic (similar can be found at UNIQLO)
Submitted by Kim of lunatiklie.tumblr.com
More Kim on Qwear: Pink Autumn, Contrast Collars, City Queer Chic
03
Mar
Being all fancy for the Keshet Cabaret. I don’t know this queer, but apparently their sweetie reads my blog. So haiiii! - Sonia
Glasses: SEE Eyewear
Shirt: Ratio Clothing
Bow Tie: Michael Kors, bought discounted at Loehmann’s
Boutonniere: My friend
Suit Vest: Mardana, NYC
Pants: Gap women’s “boy fit” from several seasons ago
03
Feb
Dolphinlegs asked: So I’ll soon be transitioning from a student to a professional, and I looked around and was like “hmm, I own no professional clothes at all.” And I really have no idea where to start. I was wondering what tips you have on dressing for a professional job interview/ dressing professionally in general. I’m not really the type of lady who would feel comfortable wearing a suit and tie, but would prefer something a little less masculine. Perhaps something on the more “soft butch” side?
To me, the difference between dressing “soft butch” and full-on masculine is the way the cut of the clothes fits your body. The actual pieces; slacks, button-ups, ties, blazers, pocket squares etc, are all the same. But I’d look for professional menswear inspired clothes that fit your gender presentation. You’ll probably have the most luck in the women’s section. There are tons of more feminine suit and tie combos out there that are cut to show off curves, and then everything in between.
(from queerbois.com)
Here are my tips for establishing your new wardrobe as an aspiring soft butch professional. You might tailor this further depending on your field and location. If once you start working there you see people being more casual, follow their lead and take it down a notch. But as far as first impressions go:
Did I leave something out? Add it to the comments!
(from brokeandbespoke.tumblr.com)
(from queerplusfashion.tumblr.com)
Ox-1 Portrait Briefcase with detachable backpack straps, formink.com for $59.00
(from marksandersphotographer.blogspot.com)
(from i-dream-of-dapper.tumblr.com)
(from thebespokedudes.com)
Congratulations! With the right outfit, you are halfway to being a Power Queer.
- Sonia
18
Dec
This H&M’s women’s blazer had been in the back of my closet for a while because I felt it was too feminine. But it was actually seeing Esther Quek’s neatly tailored women’s suits that encouraged me to try it again. Now I like the fit, and feel that it matches my androgynous presentation perfectly.
The Hunter Boots are Qwear virgins; got them at the Tannery in Harvard Square for $50 and am always waiting for rainy days like to today to sport them.
Blazer: H&M
Shirt: Ralph Lauren Boys’ Blake Oxford, tailored
Belt: Express (men’s)
Pants: Gap Broken-in Straight Khakis (also womens!)
Boots: Hunter Women’s Brixen Combat Boots, bought at the Tannery
I decided to go tieless today because if I wore ties all the time then A. I’d have trouble distinguishing between dressier and more casual occasions and B. I’d never get to show off top button swag (and in the colder weather, my mad ironing skills.)
Finally, my new haircut! Based it off of Logan Lerman in his holiday sweater and wanted to copy his adorable geeky style, but had also found inspiration from queers I’ve seen around town. I did it at a La Flemme Barber Shop in Lexington, MA; an affordable old school barber shop across from where I work that did a fantastic job.
Sending warm thoughts from Boston,
Sonia
What are YOU wearing today? Submit to Qwear!
01
Dec
Anonymous asked: I recently came out of the closet. For years I tried being more girly because thats what everyone was expecting from me but I was never comfortable that way. Now that I’m out and I’m dating a wonderful girl I want to push away all the girlyness I have. I’m not sure how I can do that without winning the lottery and buying a whole new wardrobe. Any advice?
I was once in a very similar spot. A few months into my new-found identity, I did some cleansing and removed every item from my closet that I knew I’d never wear again (goodbye, Bat Mitzvah dress!) I was left with about 5 items of clothing and 2 huge bags to give away. I gave many things to my femme friends, and still need to donate the rest.
There are probably masculine presenting people and transfeminine folks in your area who would want to get rid of old clothes that might fit you! If you are new to the community and interested in making some new friendsicles, you can look for a queer listserve in your city (in Boston it’s The List) and put out a notice that you’re looking to do a clothing swap!
You obviously can’t get a whole new wardrobe in one day, but you can start off with some basics. Like, a pair of multi-purpose pants that you feel absolutely spectacular in and can wear 4 times a week.
Basic khakis like these can be worn both at work with a button-up and blazer, or at home with a T-shirt. Gap Lived In Slim Khaki, $59.95 (25% off with code GAP25)
Go to your local thrift stores and just try everything on (We’ve got some expert thrifter advice coming later this month!) I highly recommend buying your mens or boys’ button-ups at thrift stores and getting them tailored if necessary. Find ones that fit in the shoulders, chest, and sleeves, and then adjust the length and width at a tailor (making it clear that you want it to remain a men’s shirt.) I know it seems like a lot of work to put into a thrifted shirt; but I swear it’s the best way to get a well-fitted shirt for cheap!
One pair of oxfords should keep you afloat for now in terms of nicer footwear! You may get lucky and find some vintage men’s shoes in a thrift store that fit you. Otherwise, something these Madden Girl Women Jacobz Oxfords at Amazon for $31.77 would go well with those Khakis.
Put together at least one casual outfit and one outfit that is more formal. Accessories will go far when you’re trying to stretch your wardrobe. A few pairs of ties in different styles can change the look of the same outfit. Play with tucking in, untucking, and top button-swag, to give your limited apparel a different look.
Congrats on your newly discovered identity, and have fun!
- Sonia
04
Nov
Our latest favorite 68-notes-and-counting cutesicle is back with more hot gay male inspired outfits. Heads are turning. Fuck Yeah Queer Pomps is reblogging. Sonia is considering adding a 14th sweater to her closet just to keep up.
Sunglasses: Nordstrom
Shirt: Gap
Sweater: H&M
Vest: Urban Outfitters*
Pants: Forever 21
Boots: (not shown) Timberland
Sweater: H&M
Shirt: H&M
Pants: H&M
Shoes: Sperry Top-Sider
Bracelet: Pacsun
Follow Becky: chiwithsoytown.blogspot.com, chiwithsoytown.tumblr.com
*Urban Outfitters donates money to anti-gay campaigns. Learn more about their actions here. Buffalo Exchange and Ragstock are great hipster alternatives
26
Oct
Someone left this H&M jacket in my cousin’s store a few years ago, and it’s become my fall wardrobe staple. Even though it’s a women’s jacket and 2 sizes bigger than I usually take, it fits really well and gives me an androgynous shape. Every season, H&M comes up with variations on this style. The buttons are looking pretty flimsy on their jackets days, but you can always replace them.
Also, on the subject on spending more to last longer, the $40 splurge on the Ralph Lauren boy’s sweater 2 years ago is proving very worth it. I still love the crew neck design and it is way more durable than the sweaters I got for less, which tend to stretch out and do weird things. My next culprit may just have to be one of their cable knits.
Jacket: H&M
Shirt: George, thrifted at Goodwill
Sweater: Ralph Lauren, Macy’s Boy’s Dept
Pants: Gap Broken-in Straight Khakis
