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Founder & Writer
Sonny (Sonia) Oram

Style Consultants
A.D.

Courtney (petite menswear)

Rae (Tailoring)

Raimi & Lee (hair)

Blake (plus sizes)



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Customization Design by Sonia Oram

20

May

experiencetheroo asked: Hey Sonny! Loved your review on the GabiFresh fatkinis. My question to you is what size do you feel should be the cut off since they claim to have swimsuitsforall?

Thanks! That’s a really good question. I think they really just need to change the name, because you’re always going to leave someone out if you call it Swim Suits For All. It was brought to my attention that the 24 cut-off was a problem when I read about it on a fat activist blog (Now I can’t remember what it was! It may have been thisisthinprivilege.tumblr.com) so I gathered they were leaving out a large portion of the plus sized population. But I don’t personally have the knowledge to say what size they should go up to.

I appreciated cristinamarieme.tumblr.com’s comment: “The company itself goes up to 34, but for some reason has decided to only release the GabiFresh line up to 24. My hope is that because they seem to have had such a small release of the line (most are already sold out, and apparently there was only a 3 month production window), and the popularity of them will encourage more swim suits made in larger sizes for either the next release (if it happens) or other lines.”

- Sonny

(re: GabiFresh Swimsuits for All (Unless you’re larger than size 24))

17

May

GabiFresh Swimsuits for All (Unless you’re larger than size 24)

I’m enthralled by these new plus sized swimsuits by my new blog crush Gabifresh! I love the bright colors and the way they fit. I mean, damn. If I were a lady/wore lady clothes, I’d be rockin that day and night. 

Gabifresh plus sized bathing suits

image

Gabifresh plus sized bathing suits

Gabifresh plus sized bathing suits

You can get them at swimsuitsforall.com for $68.

Queer processing time: how do you feel about the fact that the company only goes up to size 24? It seems a little hurtful to call the line “Swimsuits for All” but then not deliver what they promise. I know it costs more money to produce clothes with more fabric, but it seems to me that as size activists, they’d want to, well, be size activists. And not leave anyone out of the equation, or make anyone feel invisible for existing out of their size range.

But hey, there are hot fat people running around in galaxy suits now. And that’s fucking awesome. Maybe they could just change their name so they don’t claim to represent everyone.

Interested in your thoughts. Comment in the comments.

- Sonny

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21

Apr

Blake Calhoun: Finding clothes for the menswear inclined plus size queer

Blake blogged for The Phat Ally! (My friend Karen’s awesome fat love blog.) Check it outtt!

23

Mar

twohearts-theyrebeating asked: Hi there. I do have a quick question! I'm about 5'4 and a heavier build. But I wish that didnt stop me from being able to wear the clothes I love (not skinny, but straight cut jeans. The supra skatish obey type of person). Any idea where I may find jeans that would fit me pretty well? Thanks!

I asked two experts!

Blake says: I love Old Navy Sweetheart Skinny Jeans. They’re only $30 (they go on sale for $19 fairly frequently) and they come in short. After a couple of wears they’ll be straight and not skinny. However, if you want them to be straight on the first wear, buy a size up. If short is too long, you can cuff them or get them hemmed (get them hemmed if they’re more than 3 inches too long). 

Courtney says: Levi’s men’s taper fit (508) and straight (501) jeans cuts are also classic jeans— my 501s look straight and are a bit loose on me. They have pretty frequent sales online and they come in tons of sizes and washes!  

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14

Jan

Anonymous asked: Hi Blake,I love, love, love a good menswear vest to go under jackets, etc., but I find them so hard to find. I am a plus size woman and I'm only 5'3'', so, if I find them large enough, they are usually too long. Have you got a solution for a dapper dyke like me?

Blake says: Hey there! I certainly understand the problem with finding proper fitting clothes. If they’re too small here, they’re too big there. Men’s clothes can be hit or miss as far as fit is concerned because they are not made with curves in mind. 

Not all women’s vests are overtly feminine, especially nowadays (I sound so old. I’m not sure if I can use “nowadays” at the age of 19. Whatever.) The key, as with anything, is knowing where to look. I’m not sure where you’re located, but the Qwear Forum would be a great place to find stores in your area! Outside of women’s vests, I suggest trying out new brands, specifically ones that offer slim fit. The body fits a little closer and the rest of the vest is usually shorter. The idea behind “slim” clothes is less fabric, better fit. We weren’t sure about the tailoring possibilities for suit vests, so we consulted with Rae of the The Handsome Butch  who is a a clothier. She said it’s very hard because the buttons go all the way to the bottom.

If you can afford a $115 vest, Marimacho makes a snazzy one that comes in XL and XXL:

dapper lesbian suit vest

The Brooklyn Vest, available at Marimacho

If you really want to drop some dough, Shaz Riley at the The Butch Clothing Company can always whip up a custom vest for you starting at £200 (approx. $322). But most likely, you’ll be able to find something affordable if you shop around long enough. Keep looking; the right clothes are out there.

05

Jan

Boots For Bigger Feet!

Anonymous asked: I am a bigger girl, who normally dresses more femme with hints of masculine. I really want to wear boots but I don’t know where to look for ones that aren’t too butch but not horribly girly. I have found a few but they don’t fit. Side note, I have huge feet. If you have any suggestions I would be so happy.

Blake says: Howdy there! I have two pairs of Clark desert boots and a pair of Duck boots from L.L. Bean. I wear about a 9 in men’s and a 10/11 in women’s — so my feet are far from small. Combat boots don’t fit me well — my feet are too wide for most varieties. If you really want to wear combat boots and have wide feet like me, men’s are your best bet. While they are more expensive, they will fit you better. However, be careful with men’s combat boots — they get big and clunky reallll quick. Below are my picks for boots. Hope this helps!

image

Oakwood Suede Clarks desert boots-$109.99, available in a slew of colors and materials

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L.L. Bean duck boots, 6 inch, $119 available in various heights (6in, 8in, etc) and colors

image

Also check out Dr. Martens! Mens Dr. Martens 1460 Classic 8 Eye Boot, At Journeys for $129.99


Related posts: Dr. Martens: The Legacy Comes With A Price

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24

Dec

Pants: What Can You Fix With Tailoring?

We got a few more pant fit questions following Courtney’s advice on Combating Waist/Hip Ratio Issues in Men’s Pants. This time I turned it over to Blake. Happy holidaze! - Sonia

Anonymous asked: Is it ever a good idea to buy pants that are too big in the waist? I’m curvy with wide hips and big thighs, so a lot of pants (in the men’s as well as the women’s section) that fit me well in the leg are too big in the waist, especially since I prefer my pants to be looser in the leg rather than skinny. Belts are always an option, but in one case a pair of pants I otherwise loved was way too big in the waist. Can tailoring fix this, or have I been looking for pants in the wrong places?

Blake says: It really depends on the pair of pants. You don’t want your pants to be “baggy” in the crotch area (I find that this is more of a problem with men’s pants). If there isn’t too much extra fabric below the waist, everything else can be tailored. Any tailor can hem pants or take the waist in.

I, too, like my pants to be more baggy. I achieve this by buying a size up and wearing a belt. Belts not only keep me from flashing everyone, but they are also a great way to add an extra dimension to your outfit (a pop of color, texture, etc.). 

lesbian + plus size

(^ Blake in the most amazing pants everrr! from queerplusfashion.tumblr.com) 

All of my jeans are Old Navy’s Sweetheart Skinnys. The legs don’t hug me too tight, but they’re fitted. The quality isn’t the greatest, but they are affordable and fit me well. My khakis are Tommy Hilfiger chinos that I got tapered and hemmed. Excellent quality and fit, a bit pricy. At the end of the day, shop around to find the pair of pants that work best for you. They are out there.

Anonymous asked: So I know for shirts and blazers and things, you really want to make sure that the shoulders fit you. What would be the equivalent for pants? I mean hems would be pretty easy, but would it be more problematic to have a saggy butt or too wide waist or what?

Blake says: Tailoring can essentially fit any pants that are too big perfectly to your frame. If they are too tight, tailors can’t take or add fabric to the butt area. Likewise, too much or too little fabric below the belt can’t really be altered. Besides that, tailors can do just about anything. I’ve gotten pants tapered (see Pants: Creating a Slim Look in a Plus Size!), hemmed, and gotten the waist taken in. If in doubt, just ask your tailor. They know much more about clothes than me! Looking for a queer friendly tailor in your city? Ask the forum!

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06

Dec

Battling the DDD in Menswear

Anonymous asked: I am a curvy queer girl (size 16-18 US) who just came out, and I’m starting to dress with a more masculine feel. The problem is, I have DDD cup boobs- menswear looks completely weird on me, if it fits at all. Any advice for finding stuff that fits, or WHERE to find it? I thrift like crazy, which leads to some great finds, but some new stuff would be good too. Thanks!

Blake says: Hey there! Sounds like we are both fighting the battle of the boobage.
I know how hard it is to find menswear that fits a large chest. After all, most menswear wasn’t made to have room for such things, especially large ones. 

I shop at Belk almost exclusively. Their brand is Saddlebred; it’s cheap and of decent quality. Ralph Lauren shirts also fit me well (ta-da!) I haven’t had much luck with other brands off the rack. So shop around to find a brand that fits you.

If you can’t find a brand that you like, tailoring is the way to go. Buy shirts that fit you in the chest, and everything else can be tailored; sleeves, shoulders, etc. (Sonia adds: Here is an old post with tips for Tailoring Men’s Button-ups for Larger Chests.)

26

Nov

Suit Separates With Blake

Anonymous asked: I’m a masculine-of-center genderqueer person, and I have a formal event coming up in a week. I’ve recently gained weight and 1. don’t fit into my old dress pants and 2. feel really self conscious about my hips/ass (I’m definitely pear shaped). I can’t afford a suit but I want to look classy and stylish — help?

Blake says: Try buying suit separates and then getting them altered to fit you body. Buying pants and a blazer/vest independently of each other will be cheaper and won’t take you as long to find.

For formal events, I like to wear either khakis or dress pants. Admittedly, my perception of fancy is skewed. Here are some combinations that I like for formal attire. You could do a vest or a blazer, or neither depending on how formal the event is. As far as neckwear is concerned…go crazy.

Some separates inspiration:

suit separates
I wore this to a kinda fancy occasion. (It’s all relative I suppose)

suit separates
(source unknown)

suit separates
(source: blog.debbybridal.com)

suit separates
I wore this a few days ago with khakis (*jaw drops* … this outfit is so perfect - Sonia)

suit separates
(source: socialbliss.com)

Full on smance:
suit separates
(source: artofwore.com)

Recent Qwear fashion timez with Blake: Blake’s Thrifting SuccessBlake’s Dapper School Queer LookAvoiding the Buddha Belly 12-Inch-Zipper Problem

09

Nov

Hey Phat Queers!

I’d like to interrupt my regularly scheduled programming to tell you about my friend Karen’s blog about fat phobia: phatally.blogspot.com. Her thoughts and explorations have raised my consciousness around all the ways in which our society stigmatizes fat. And it’s gotten me thinking more about how important it is for us to celebrate our bodies, rather than degrade them. She even addressed androgyny in this post! I’m her anonymous friend :) Regardless of your size, I think you’d love her blog. To quote her, “Stigmatizing fat hurts every one, regardless of what their body looks like.” 

In honor of Karen’s efforts  and all my readers  I want to shout out a special invitation to all curvy/big/fat/plus sized folks to SUBMIT photos of some fabulous outfits! Can’t wait to see all of your lovely selves. 

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