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Founder & Writer
Sonny (Sonia) Oram

Style Consultants
A.D.

Courtney (petite menswear)

Rae (Tailoring)

Raimi & Lee (hair)

Blake (plus sizes)



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Customization Design by Sonia Oram

19

Apr

10 Queer Fashion Related Things to Make You Smile

I’m on lockdown right now due to some marathon bomber being armed and on the loose. I’ve been inspired by Buzzfeed’s happy lists. So I thought I’d make my own, equipped with news about the Clintons!

1. This dude has a tie and a bling necklace on AT THE SAME TIME
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(from: www.dapperq.com)


2. Just look AT THAT FACE!
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(from: leeoliveira.com)


3. Shopbop has a “Crepe Femme Dress.” Let’s just pretend they intended it for the queers.
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4. Smiling yet? This hair:
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(from: loveisthelawmag.com)

5. Okay, how about the most adorable tomboy-femme couple everrr??
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(from: fitforafemme.com)


6. Adorable person I do not know:
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Anyone know who this is or where this picture comes from? Cause I don’t!

7. dapperQ has a mysterious commentator under the name “Hillary Cli*ton,” who references Hillary’s exact whereabouts in her comments. 
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(From here)


8. We take fashion very seriously:
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(from: dailypictur.es)

9. Let’s not forget what The Handsome Butch and Bill Clinton have in common!
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(from: thehandsomebutch.tumblr.com)


10. Ellen and Portia get hotter and more fashionable by the minute:
image(from: http://nattyv.tumblr.com)

Hang in there, Boston! Got anything to add? Comment! 

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28

Mar

Tell it to a Butch on KVRX + Behind the Scenes Pics!

Last Tuesday night, March 26th, at 8pm CST, dapperQ contributor Joelle Zigman and I did a special one-off edition of the KVRX (student-run radio from the University of Texas at Austin) advice talk show, Tell it to a Girl, called Tell it to a Butch. We answer questions about engagement rings, what to wear to prom, coming out to your mother, and how to do animal prints right. Conclusion? Butches make everrrrything better. Disclaimer: every time I pause it’s because I’m looking for an alternative word to “faggy.” Thanks so much for having me, Joelle! 

Additionally, our Three Leaves Menswear videoshoot last Sunday in Brooklyn went really well! Here are some behind-the-scenes photo with me, our tailoring consultant The Handsome Butch, and Katrina Casiño (Autostraddle writer). Many thanks to dapperQ for setting it up! My favorite part of the day was tripping and falling into THB’s arms. (Wait, day? My favorite part of this whole week.) 

image

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This is my “I’m not completely dying of joy being next to you right now,” pose.

I have some more updates coming your way soon, so stay tuned!

Yours,

Sonia Pretend-Butch Oram

23

Mar

Life Update

I’m off to NYC for the next 24 hours to shoot a spring fashion video showing off pieces from Three Leaves Menswear, with videographer Ricardo NelsonTopher Gross (contributor at ORIGINAL PLUMBING magazine), Sebastian Joshua Flowers (contributor at bklyn boihood), Rae/The Handsome Butch (our tailoring consultant and contributor at dapperQ), and Katrina Casiño (contributor Autostraddle). All made possible by the amazing Anita Dolce Vita of dapperQ.

Three Leaves Menswear Looks for early spring ‘13 (from wethreeleaves.com/blogs/news)

I’m on the Greyhound as we speak. So excited!!

- Sonia

20

Mar

freegladelancer asked: Is it ever a good idea to buy pants that are too big in the waist? I'm curvy with wide hips and big thighs, so a lot of pants (in the men's as well as the women's section) that fit me well in the leg are too big in the waist, especially since I prefer my pants to be looser in the leg rather than skinny. Belts are always an option, but in one case a pair of pants I otherwise loved was way too big in the waist. Can tailoring fix this, or have I been looking for pants in the wrong places?

Rae AKA The Handsome Butch says: Reducing the waist size is very simple for most good tailors. In the custom suiting business, we sometimes purposefully cut the waist to be slightly larger with the intention of reducing it after the second fitting. The classic pant has two outseams and one back seam. Depending on the amount of extra material you have, I suggest your tailor adjust the waist at all three seams to give the pant a more natural waistline. If only the back is adjusted, it might result in the dreaded wedgy effect.

Rae is a clothier with Bindle & Keep in NY. To contact her for a fitting, email Rachel@BindleandKeep.com

19

Mar

Anonymous asked: You've done a few posts on getting custom made shirts (from places like Ratio and Blank Label). I'm thinking about getting my first custom shirt made, but there are so many places that do it these days! What has been your best custom shirt ordering experience? Is there one company that you'd recommend over all the others?

If you are around New York City or plan on visiting any time soon, my highest recommendation is our tailoring consultant, Rae (aka The Handsome Butchwith Bindle & KeepYou can e-mail her at Rachel@BindleandKeep.com. I haven’t made anything with her yet myself, but she’s queer and amazing (not to mention, uh, gorgeous) so I’m sure she’d fit you for a fabulous shirt.

image

This could be you! (from thehandsomebutch.tumblr.com)

If you are not around NYC, and you fit within the S - XL range, I also highly recommend Androgyny. Even though they aren’t custom made, their shirts actually fit me better than any custom made shirt I’ve ever gotten. 

I also had a really positive experience with both Ratio Clothing and Blank Label. The email exchange with Eric Powell of Ratio was incredibly in-depth and he took extraordinary care to make sure I got what I needed (and was very up-to-date on queer needs.) It also depends which fabrics and styles you are interested in. Ratio has some amazing new gingham and plaid options that I’m feeling a tad drooly over. However, Blank Label offers more options for collar, placket, cuffs, pockets, and buttons. Ratio also will allow you to send back a shirt for additional alterations as many times as you need; whereas Blank Label offers just one remake.

I don’t have any experience with bespoke women’s shirts, so I don’t have much advice on finding more feminine cuts. But I should add that Androgyny is really cut to look androgynous. Menswear companies like Ratio and Blank Label will have more masculine cuts that emphasize broad shoulders. 

Click on the brands to see my reviews about each: Androgyny | Ratio Clothing | Blank Label

Anyone else have reviews to add of these or other custom shirt labels? Add them to the comments!

- Sonia

11

Mar

The Handsome Butch Is Now Our Tailoring Expert

Y’all, Rae of The Handsome Butch is now our expert queer tailoring consultant. So send us all yer tailoring questions! If you live in or near NYC and want to get anything hand made with her, check out Bindle & Keep, or email her at Rachel@BindleandKeep.com.

In addition to being an amazing human being, Rae used the word “abreast” in an email with me. I sooo need to use this word more often.

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I like to think that she’s sipping coffee while answering our questions. #holdittogethereveryone (from thehandsomebutch.tumblr.com)

*Sigh*

Oh, was I saying something? 

Anonymous asked: Hello! I recently bought a vintage (1930s) tuxedo: The high-waisted pants fit well but need to be taken in, and the coat needs a bit of adjustment. I’d love to achieve a feminine-slanted androgynous look with the ensemble, a la Marlene Dietrich, but am unsure how to find a tailor I can trust with the work. (I’m in NYC.) Any advice on how best to describe what I want, or how to find the right tailor?

THB says: Yes! We’ve worked extensively with Laura & Melinda’s in the Lower East Side. I suggest you bring a few pictures of the exact fit and have them pin your tuxedo until you’re pleased with the mockup. Take special care to ensure the shoulders and jacket length are proportional with your frame. And be mindful that extensive alterations (especially the shoulders) can sometimes exceed the cost of the original suit.

02

Mar

sleeplings asked: My mum gave me a jacket that I really like but it is a woman's jacket so when I put it on it kind of exaggerates curves making it look like I have more boobs and hips than I actually do. I want a more boyish looking body and I'm not really comfortable wearing the jacket for that reason. I find that a lot of woman's jackets are cut in a way that does this. Is there a way to taylor jackets in a way to give them a straighter cut? Thank you xx

I asked Rae of The Handsome Butch, who is also a clothier with  Bindle & Keep in NY. She says: 

The major differences between men’s and women’s jacket cuts are bust and skirting (flair between lower ribcage and the top of the hips). When we make women’s suits for people with curves, we take a series of measurements to triangulate hip and bust curvature. The key to putting a men’s cut on a person with curves is to skip these steps and instead treat the bust as chest size, not chest size plus bust. It’s important to realize that not only has the fabric of your jacket been cut to allow for the bust but so has the interlining. The interlining is the internal canvas by which the outer fabric has been glued or sewn. Cinching and tucking the fabric to give a straighter cut is next to impossible because the interlining will still have the curvature you’re looking remove. The abridged answer is that I’m afraid even a magical tailor won’t be able to give the results you’re looking for.

16

Feb

I met Rae of The Handsome Butch for the first time! They are as charming in real life as they are on their blog. More pics coming soon from the #queermazing dapperQ blowout, but this couldn’t wait.

09

Feb

Dear New York Followers… See you on Friday!

This is really exciting. Like, the most exciting. Like, put on your best bow tie and dance alone in your room to Beyonce for an hour exciting.

dapperQ’s Hot Rabbit - Queer Dance Party - Fashion Week Addition’s party was postponed to this Friday, Feb 15th due to the snow storm. And guess what queer will be in town?? 

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THIS GUY. That’s me. You know, the queer who blogs for you like all the time. That’s my face. Along with the folks at dapperQ, Rae of The Handsome Butch, Marimacho, and many more! There will be prizes for the best dressed (i.e. not your shoveling clothes. I mean, what?)

Here are the deets (to RSVP, click HERE):

Friday Feb 15 @ The Monster (Downstairs)
80 Grove St (W 4th/7th Ave)
10pm-4am
Sponsored by dapperQ
More info here
UPDATE: 21+

See you there!! Come find me! - Sonia

15

Nov

Anonymous asked: im getting married :) where can i find a tailor wiling to custom make a suit for me?

Congratulations! The Butch Clothing Company is worth checking out. I interviewed them here.

I also just got in touch with Rae of The Handsome Butch, who among many things is a clothier with Bindle & Keep in NY. She specializes in suits for butch/queer types. Her email is Rachel@BindleandKeep.com. 

Your location would be helpful so that other people in your area might be able to recommend local tailors. I can update this answer with your location if you want to let me know.

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Feb 10, 2012 -- Everyone is Gay and Here's What They Wear

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Apr 14, 2012 — Ratio Clothing: Gay or Just Awesome?


















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