Dolphinlegs asked: So I’ll soon be transitioning from a student to a professional, and I looked around and was like “hmm, I own no professional clothes at all.” And I really have no idea where to start. I was wondering what tips you have on dressing for a professional job interview/ dressing professionally in general. I’m not really the type of lady who would feel comfortable wearing a suit and tie, but would prefer something a little less masculine. Perhaps something on the more “soft butch” side?

To me, the difference between dressing “soft butch” and full-on masculine is the way the cut of the clothes fits your body. The actual pieces; slacks, button-ups, ties, blazers, pocket squares etc, are all the same. But I’d look for professional menswear inspired clothes that fit your gender presentation. You’ll probably have the most luck in the women’s section. There are tons of more feminine suit and tie combos out there that are cut to show off curves, and then everything in between.

(from queerbois.com)

Here are my tips for establishing your new wardrobe as an aspiring soft butch professional. You might tailor this further depending on your field and location. If once you start working there you see people being more casual, follow their lead and take it down a notch. But as far as first impressions go:

1. For pants and blazers, choose conservative colors such as grey, black, navy, army green, and khaki. For shirts and sweaters go for white, burgundy, blues, grays, light pinks, and greens. Ties and pocket squares can add pops of color, but nothing too bright or crazy.
2. Blazers and sport coats! Maybe even with elbow patches. Check out H&M, Topshop, J.Crew, Marimacho.
3. Khakis/ dress pants: Go to town. Once you find a cut that you like, don’t be afraid to buy it in multiple colors! I love the fit of the Gap’s pants. Zara’s are also sweet. Don’t roll the cuffs.
4. Unless you’re interviewing at the most prestigious legal firm, rock separate pieces rather than full-on suits. It’s cheaper, and easier to combine things that fit well. See Blake’s piece on suit separates.
5. For footwear: derbies, brogues, oxfords, fancier saddle shoes, wingtips, and loafers are all great choices. No sneakers, boat shoes, or sandals. 
6. You’ll need at least one black belt and one brown belt. Avoid big, decorative buckles with angel wings and skulls etc. on them. Match your belt with your shoes.
7. Sweaters and cardigans are great, but go for higher-end sweaters that fit well and don’t look frumpy. Check out the ones at Everlane, Banana Republic, J. Crew. 
8. Make sure your shirt fits well; getting it tailored if necessary. Depending on the level of formality, you might need to only wear long-sleeve shirts. If it’s less formal: In the summer, short sleeve button-ups are a good choice! (Ta-da) Stay away from polos, shirts with western detailing, and flannel. Always keep your shirt tucked in.
9. Don’t shy away from neck ties and bow ties! They can break up an outfit and add another element or color or texture. But keep it snug with the top button buttoned; not loosened.
10. Carry a briefcase, portfolio, or professional backpack.
11. Iron! It makes a huge difference!

Did I leave something out? Add it to the comments!

(from brokeandbespoke.tumblr.com)

(from queerplusfashion.tumblr.com)

Ox-1 Portrait Briefcase with detachable backpack straps, formink.com for $59.00

(from marksandersphotographer.blogspot.com)

(from i-dream-of-dapper.tumblr.com)

(from thebespokedudes.com)

Congratulations! With the right outfit, you are halfway to being a Power Queer.

- Sonia

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Anonymous asked: Hi Qwear, do you have any recommendations for comfortable femmey heels (especially the kind that can be worn to work)? I like how heels look but I usually find them uncomfortable if I walk around in them for too long.

Why not go to the expert, Fit For a Femme? She says:

Welcome to the fold! I am a firm believer in comfortable heels. The sight of an otherwise impeccably dressed woman hobbling around in her heels; or worse, traipsing around city streets barefoot, torture devices dangling from a manicured hand, is one of the saddest around. It’s equally important to feel at ease and proud of your appearance in the workplace so that you and your colleagues can focus on your brilliant skills and whatnot! I’ll share a few pairs from tried-and-true brands, but don’t miss my special tips at the end of the post. 


VC Signature Prunella Taupe, $250 (plus an extra 30% off with code HOLIDAY) at Vince Camuto. I can’t imagine a more femme take on the nude staple, with that metal cap-toe and the dainty stud detailing. I nearly left the brand out, but I have a pair of nude snakeskin pumps from the VC line and they are a real pleasure to wear, even on treacherous little brick lanes in Boston. Check out their Signature Prima as well, and for some holiday glitz, the velvety Verona!


Seychelles I’ll Have Another, $110 at Seychelles. I bought a pair of their insanely high platform sandals a year ago and haven’t looked back since. They’ve survived the beach, two weeks touring the UK, and endless shenanigans in SF on foot; and I never suffer for it. With plush leather linings, a thick heel, and that critical hidden .75” platform, these heels are literally built for comfort. In brown and fire engine red as well. 

Franco Sarto Cicero, $69.99 at Piperlime and Lord & Taylor. I have these in a demure red suede, and they are surprisingly cushy. They’re very easy to wear, have a subtle pin-up vibe, and the suede is much richer looking in person, believe me. They come in a range of bold shades and patterns, and would be a tremendously femme way to punch up a work outfit!
 



Adrienne Vittadini Polenta Bootie, $99.99 at Amazon. Just picture these with a sleek pencil skirt and silk pussybow blouse! The brand’s styles can definitely be hit or miss, but they also have a killer boot and patent leather penny loafer that are very on-trend. The leopard print calf-hair ankle boots I have by them are fantastic and wear well. Generally affordable and definitely worth the hunt. 

J. Crew Collection Sasha Snakeskin Pump, $375 at J.Crew. I haven’t owned a pair myself but the brand is pretty widely reviewed as carrying a very comfortable, work-friendly line of pumps and heels. Plus, everything else they make is pretty outstanding, so I feel good about recommending them. Wait for a sale to save some of that hard-earned dough, though, because they are on the expensive side. 

OK, now for those tips: 

1. Test the shoe out, whether it’s in the store or on a clean surface in your home. Never assume the shoe will “break in” or get more comfortable with wear. If it doesn’t feel good right away, it will probably only get worse. I’ve had to put down many a beguiling shoe because they didn’t pass this initial test, but you’ll be glad of it. I know I am!

2. Leather linings are a great sign that you’re looking at a potentially comfy shoe. If you want to add even more cushion (and I always recommend doing whatever’s necessary to feel and look good!), buy insoles, like these ones, or even the cheaper drugstore 3-packs should do. The heel pads especially make all the difference in the world.

3. If you’re nervous to start out with a heel, try a wedge! They give you a lot more support and you still get that leg-lengthening effect and height that traditional heels provide. Zappos has over a hundred to choose from in tons of styles and at many price points. 

Hope that helps! 

- FFAF

——

TONIGHT! (Wed, Nov 28) Ice Cream and fashion icebreakers with FFAF and myself (Sonia) at J.P. Licks in Jamaica Plain (659 Centre St) at 8 PM! RSVP on Facebook, or to meee at sonia@qwearfashion.com. Bow ties and/or comfortable heels recommended.

Ashley is seriously stepping it up with J.Crew fixings and brogues. She’s keeping some of her old urban appeal with the Hershel backpack, and the color coordination is still a key part of her look. But Ashley is growing up… and giving us more work clothes gayspiration. I’m ready to see this queer in a tie. Like if you agree.

Shirt: J.Crew men’s
Sweater: J.Crew men’s
Pants: American Eagle Skinny Trousers, women’s
Shoes: Clarks
Backpack: Herschel

See more of Ashley’s dapper outfits: Ashley’s Easter Outfit, Ashley’s Evolving Style

Anonymous asked: I just recently started working at a retail store, and I'm more comfortable in men's casual clothes, shorts and tshirts, or jeans and a tshirt. At this store you can dress the way you like but the other girls dress really feminine. Like striahgt jeans, frilly tops, they all wear make up and just look really feminine. I kind of feel like a fish out of water, I'd like to look more like them, but I don't want to lose my personal style either. Any ideas?

It sounds like they are dressing up a bit more than you are. You can dress up in guy’s clothes and then you won’t feel so out of place. Try putting a blazer over your t-shirt, or wearing a button-up instead. Maybe add a nice pair of boots to your wardrobe, and one pair of pants that aren’t jeans, like chinos. The Broken-in Straight Khakis at the Gap have a really boyish fit, and are my best friend. Lots more inspiration under the formal wear tag. Take-away: You can be yourself and step up your game a little more, and dressing-up does not = feminine. 

Related posts: Beyond Jeans and a T-shirt

Shopping for well-priced work clothes in plus sizes can be hard. No fear! I have some staple pieces that will keep your budget in check while also giving you a professional look. Here are some items to give your wardrobe a professional boost with inspiration for people of all shapes.

1. Can I say cardigans more than once????
Cardigans are a wonderful way to class up any outfit while providing comfort and an element of androgyny (men’s and women’s cardigans are virtually identical.) In addition, they cross over well from day/work wear to nightlife wear. I suggest buying a cardigan in gray, blue, black, and a statement color. I bought most of my cardigans from a Tommy Hilfiger outlet mall in Williamsburg, VA. However, if you don’t live near an out mall, I also like the cardigans over at Old Navy for the price point. 


(source: gentleman-forever.tumblr.com)

2. Vests!
I currently have two vests that I go to whenever I am trying to look more put together and professional. Vests are a great multi-purpose form of clothing. You can pretty much wear then with anything! Goodwill or a comparable thrift store usually has some great options in all sizes.

(source: covermenmag.com)

3. Collared Shirts
Just like cardigans and vests, collared shirts have crossover appeal. If you have trouble finding one that fits you, keep looking! They come in all cuts, sizes, colors, and patterns! You can survive off of owning 5 to 7 shirts — one white, another light blue, and 3 to 5 of your choice. Get some with button-down collars, and some without so that you have a range of of casual and fancy (button-down = casual.) The combinations of cardigans, vests, and collared shirts are endlesssssssss. I recommend Saddlebred collared shirts and Ralph Lauren for plus sizes; they fit me well. Just shop around for what fits you best. 

(source: maxxanch.tumblr.com)

4. Blazers
I have had GREAT luck at Goodwill. However, thrift shops are a mixed bag. Lane Bryant has some really nice blazers. The arms fit well enough that I can bend them and the body of the blazer fits perfectly to my curves. I suggest that you look out for a sale; Lane Bryant can be pricey (I went during a sale and got two blazers for $90, not bad). A blazer should fall below the waistline but not go past your bum. The sleeves should be in between the knuckle and the wrist. 

Herringbone jacket, available at Lane Bryant for $89.95

5. Pants 
Buy pants cheap and get them tailored. I would shoot for khakis and a light weight dress material. Try to stay away from the Poly and Ester twins. I find that slim leg pants are the most flattering look for any size. Have your tailor adjust your pants leg to about 9.5 inches to create the look (trust the tailor with the number of inches). I buy pants from all over, mainly Tommy Hilfiger on extremeeeee markdown and Old Navy during the holiday deal season. See my post about tailoring pants for more info.

Look for pants with these cuts:


(source: panizsehatniaki.blogspot.com) Pants from Zara


Pants from Tommy Hilfiger (source: he99.blogspot.com)

6. Shoes!
Shoes can make or break an outfit. No holes, no tears, not too broken in for the office. Out of all of the above basics, I recommend that you spend the most money on good quality shoes. I like Clarks desert boots and Bass Weejuns for the office.

Desert Boots. Pick yours up at Topman, FarFetch, The Tannery, Infinity Shoes, or basically anywhere. (source: four-thirdsgentleman.tumblr.com)


Bass Weejuns (womens) available at Bass

Related Posts: Androgenizing With Ralph Lauren, Diminishing Curves With Menswear

Anonymous asked: I play in a symphonic band and the norm is for the girls to wear a black dress unless you play percussion (because of having to move around a lot) or bass clarinet (because of how you sit), in which they suggest wearing black blouse and black slacks. I don't feel comfortable in a dress but because the music world is so conservative I feel inappropriate asking to wear a button up shirt and slacks. Should I ask anyway?

Fabulous. I went to school for music! In the places I’ve played there was never any stigma about women/female assigned folks in orchestras wearing slacks (which many did.) But I was mostly part of non-conservative music circles.

Does the dress code say you must wear a dress, or is it more just expected of you? If it is written in the dress code, then you could try to change it. You could even look up the anti-discrimination laws in your state/country. Or if you are in school, see what the school handbook says about gender identity. I’ve always felt that dress codes should just simply get rid of all talk of gender. So anyone can choose to wear a dress, tux, or something in between. But I know we’re not there yet.

If absolutely every non percussionist or bass clarinetist female in your band is wearing a dress, I could see how you might feel most comfortable giving them the heads up that you will be wearing pants. But if the dress code isn’t explicit, I’d honestly just go ahead and wear the slacks and button-up shirt. (Well, I’d also wear a bow tie. But that’s just me.)

Anonymous asked: Hi I stand all day for work (hard surface), which means I'm more likely to pick an athletic shoe instead of something that looks good. Do you know of any good looking shoes that have the support/ comfort of an athletic shoe?

I really like Bass shoes. I find them as comfortable as athletic shoes. If you like more feminine things, American Eagle flats are supposed to be really comfortable too.

Any more recommendations?

Anonymous asked: I’m brazilian and it is very hot where I live, about 27°C to 30°C all year long. There is no such thing as winter, which means I can’t really work with layers. I like short sleeves buttom-ups or polos and jeans (as long as they do not accentuate my hips) and I wear them for work with converse shoes. I wonder if there are other clothes I could try. I am a psychologist and work with young people in a university, which does not require a dress code. 

Wow, jeans, converse, and polos to work? Sounds great! So it’s in the 80’s (F) all year round. Let’s get some dress shorts. My beloved Old Navy Bermudas only come in 3 colors this year (view this post)… but I have some from Banana Republic that I got last year on sale and they fit in a straight up-and-down way and have really nice fabric. I also can’t help but recommend the shorts from the store with whom I have been having an intimate love affair for the past 6 months:

Topman, dark pink chino shorts

I don’t think I mentioned how tucking in your shirt and wearing a belt can seriously rack up the fancy points:

ASOS black leather belt (only $21.81!)

Add some loafers (and don’t forget the invisible socks):

Bass Casell Black Shoe

Have you considered ties? Have I shown you my latest favorite?

General Knot Bedford Plaid & Japanese Indigo Chambray Necktie

Now, I know it’s hot. But you can still add a vest over your short-sleeve button-up once in a while (and tie!!), right?

Ralph Lauren Boys Cotton Cable Vest (See me rocking mine here)

A little inspiration from Topman:

Topman Smart Outfit 5 (link)